A building in San Telmo
I braced myself trying hard not to touch any part of the cramped interior. I tried to resist the unpredictable forces that kept denying me the luxury of standing straight. Looking through the small narrow window in front of me I watched as the bleak landscape rolled by. Unlike many bus toilets I have had the unfortunate pleasure of experiencing, this one somehow inspired me to start writing. I usually start scribbling notes in my dairy when something interesting happens which then triggers a retrospective of events since my last blog entry. I suppose you are wondering what´s so interesting about my moving toilet experience. Nothing really. I can only assume it was inspred by boredom. We had been traveling north accross rural Argentina for over 8 hours and there were absolutely no signs of life except for dotted tufts of bushy grass and the occasional cluster of trees. Nothing. I watched with great concern as the bus stopped to let old women get off and start walking in a direction. A direction which seemed to offer nothing but vast rural plains with an unobstructed horizon. I couldn't help but wonder where on earth they were going.
Our destination was far from rural however. We arrived in Buenos Aires yesterday morning after enduring the 22 hour bus journey from San Martin de los Andes. Yes, 22 hours! We spent two nights in the small town which was just enough time for us to experience the numerous chocolate shops, cafes and woodland trails before heading north to the capital.
Plaza Dorrego
View of San Pedro Telmo from Plaza Dorrego
This morning Ali and I ventured out onto the cobbled streets of San Telmo to see what the neighborhood had instore for us. Just a few blocks away from our hostel is Plaza Dorrego, a small square surrounded by cafes, bars and small antique shops bursting with ornate chandeliers. An obsession it seems. Market stalls and street vendors consumed the remaining space where you could admire the work of local artists or buy anything from bags and books to clothing or even antique firearms. The main attraction of San Telmo however is its obsession with tango and boasts the largest concentration of this culture in Buenos Aires. This explains why we could barely walk a block without watching a street performance or being invited to a show. The streets were filled with the sound of music and the smell of grilled steak. Buenos Aires is famous for parrillas (steak houses) and there is definitely no shortage of them in San Telmo. I don´t think there is anywhere else on earth where you can buy a tenderloin for just over 2 pounds! Everywhere you look there is old European architecture and delapotated mansions. Despite the fact that they have seen better days, the buildings have retained much of their charm and add character to the neighborhood. A subtle yet constant reminder of what Argentina once was.
A building on Avenida Dependencia
Balconies in San Telmo
This afternoon Ali and I walked along the unsightly streets of Boca to soak up the lively atmosphere. Today was a big day for football fans as the Boca Juniors were playing River Plate. Two teams at the top of their league. It was hard not to notice the excitement and anticipation surrounding the stadium. Swarms of blue and yellow shirts made their way to the stadium chanting slogans while feasting on giant steak sandwiches. Ali purchased a large blue and yellow flag in support of the local team which I then swiftly used as a shield. The neigborhood surrounding the stadium was how shall I say, a bit sketchy, and I found comfort in wearing the flag. It offered much needed protection against mobs of hostile footy fans who may otherwise have been obliged to do abuse us in some way.
Colourful Caminito
After our visit to the football stadium we walked further along the delapotated streets clutching at our valuables. Located just a few blocks away from the stadium was an area called Caminito where we were eager to visit. Just as we neared the area a taxi that was leaving Caminito pulled in and stopped beside us. The driver and the two passengers opened their windows and kindly offered us some advice. "Don't go there, they are throwing things at people and setting off flares". "..and take off your shirt, they are River supporters". The taxi drove away and left us standing on the street corner. I studied the littered streets, old factory buildings and low income housing looking for signs of danger. At that instant I demanded Ali remove her Boca shirt. Despíte the sensible warnings, Ali continued walking in the same direction and announced that she was curious. I confirmed for the record that this was her choice and reluctantly followed her towards the danger zone.
Fortunately the opposing fans were nowhere to be seen and had already entered the stadium. We were left to safely wander around Caminito and admire its colourful surroundings. It's a pleasant area which offers a small concentration of cafes and tango bars. The main attraction seems to be the interesting choice of colours used to paint the buildings.
We ended the day with a steak and a bottle of vino tinto at a local parrilla. I'm looking forward to ending the remainder of our days here in Buenos Aires in a similar fashion.
