Hanoi

We arrived in Hanoi at 4:30am. The streets were already full of people trying to offer us taxis and motorbike rides so it wasn't long before we found our guest house. Ali was relieved to discover that we had a western style toilet. Both the guest house and our double room is pleasant and quite cosy. It's the same hotel that Ali's brother Stuart will be staying in. He decided a while ago that he was going to take a three week holiday in Vietnam to be with Ali. This worked out great for Ali because she needed urgent supplies from back home. We found a nice restaurant for brunch called 'Paradise'. I had the best beef burger. I hadn't felt this full in quite a while. The coffee afterwards in the local cafe was equally as good. I bought a fake lonely planet guide to Vietnam for 3 pounds. Although some of the pages are joined at one end not perfectly legible, it's better than paying 14 pounds for a real one. I do feel bad that we are supporting such a harmful industry but we are travelers on a budget and it's all about survival. I do admit that was a poor justification. But anyway, with my new guide I was able to orientate us towards the old quarter by Hoan Kiem, a small lake in the center of the city. There are so many shops selling art and beautifully crafted objects. Lacquered items seem to be popular here but I couldn't help but buy some more art. We found a great bar to meet Stuart called 'Pinky Moony'. It had balconies which overlooked the street below and looked like the perfect location to sit and chat. We photocopied the map from my guide book with instructions on how to reach the bar. We made the receptionist at the guest house hand the message to Stuart as we sneaked back out (we didn't want to meet Stuart at the hotel - it wasn't interesting or creative enough).

Back in the old quarter we discovered art shops where painters were painting replicas of famous works. I thought they were amazing. I was very impressed. If I hadn't witnessed them actually applying paint to a canvas I would have been convinced that a machine did them. They were so precise and acurate. Each stroke was perfect. I considered buying Mum a Van Gogh for her new summer house but then decided against it at the last minute. We took a motorbike taxi back to the hotel so that we could rest and refresh ourselves before heading out to meet Stuart at the bar. I anticipated a long night catching up.

Buffalos and Butterflies

Boy riding a buffalo in the mountains

I stood on the balcony, wiped the sleep from my eyes and watched the clouds roll in through the valley below me. I slept well last night because it was so peaceful and quiet. We ate a quick breakfast which consisted of bananas, bread and a few wedges of Laughing Cow before making our way down to the lobby. A group of us from the hotel, including the Israeli family, hired a Jeep for the morning. We though it would be a nice idea to drive down into the valley and then hike around some of the settlements below. The Jeep was the perfect means of transport considering the roads were in terrible condition. At one point (on a cliff edge) there was no road! The Jeep took us half way down into the valley where we started walking. The views of the mountains and rice terraces were incredible. There were butterflies everywhere. One even landed on Ohmei's face. The kids enjoyed picking them up when their wings were closed. Ohmei kept handing them to me as gifts. I looked around and tried to imagine life in the mountains. I was impressed with the irrigation system that they used on the rice fields. Bamboo shoots are cut in half and used to flow water from one layer to another. The residents even managed to make a generator for electricity from the natural flow of water down the mountain. A small wire rose up from the contraption and was routed for miles to a small wooden house in the distance. I also got see rice being polished and bagged for shipping. I watched boys ride around on buffalos and little girls carry babies on their backs. It was such an eye-opening experience to see how these people live their lives. Although they have a very hard life and are seriously underprivileged the people here seem to be happy and content. The driver of the Jeep met us at the other side of the valley and took us back up into town. We then walked for an hour or so down another mountain to the river below. It had been decided that we were to go swimming. Ali pushed me in first and I almost froze upon entering the water. Just as I was about to curse her in front of the children I became aware of the really quite strong current. At first I joked and made it look like I was being dragged by the current, but then seconds later it was no joke. I couldn't stop myself. I just kept sailing away and couldn't fight the force of the water. It dragged me further towards the waterfall until finally my body was stopped by a large rock behind me. After that, we established a safer place to swim and then stayed there.

I ate alone at a restaurant called Little Sapa. I ordered Vietnamese spring rolls in rice paper with pork and vegetables followed by sweet and sour pork with rice. Both were excellent. Back at the hotel I played with the kids on the balcony. They were climbing all over me like a frame. I tried to tell them that I needed to go shower but they wouldn't let me go. I was determined to keep some of my energy for the 13 hour train ride we were about to endure.

Good Mornin' Vietnam!

Rice terraces in Sapa

I woke up and the coach was swaying violently from left to right as it sped around the winding roads. I looked outside and saw the beginning of a different type of landscape. It looked almost but not quite tropical. Lots of rugged palm plants that all of a sudden were starting to remind me of the images I had in my head of Vietnam. I was excited about visiting a new country but realised that it will be strange having to learn new phrases in a different language and adjust to a whole new currency. After 7 weeks in China I was quite comfortable and accustomed to their environment. I am curious as to how different Vietnam will be. I suppose I was starting to loose enthusiasm having traveled in the same country for so long. I have met many people who say that they love China so much that they could spend months there because there is so much to see. There is lots to see, but I definitely feel like I'm ready for a change of environment. We met an Israeli family at the unfriendly border crossing in He Kou. They too are traveling for one year. I asked the mother how the kids were dealing with the traveling and she said that it has been the most amazing experience for them. The two boys are 4 and 6 years old. I thought the parents were crazy at first but now I admire them. There is not many families who can say that they have spent 24/7 with there children for this long of a period. They have bonded so well as a result.

We all took a small bus together through the mountains to Sapa which is a small town just south of the border. The feeling of adventure was starting fill up inside me again. I hadn't felt like this for a while. When we had arrived at our destination my first observation was how friendly and polite everyone was. The people looked so happy and there were big smiling faces everywhere I looked. After playing with the Israeli kids on the balcony in our hotel, I left in search of food. Ali didn't participate as she wasn't feeling too good so I found a restaurant and ordered breakfast alone. The Israeli family walked by and saw me sitting by myself. They asked if it was okay to join me. The kids looked happy to see me and proceeded to show me their toys. I occasionally looked out to watch the people pass by on the street. There are many minority groups here in Sapa but the most predominant is the H'mong. They are everywhere trying to sell hand crafted cushion covers and bracelets. They wear indigo-dyed linen skirts and aprons with wrap-on leggings and a cylindrical hat. They also wear lots of silver jewelry including large earrings and clusters of bracelets. A couple of them came up to the front of the restaurant to try and sell us stuff. We all politely shook our heads and carried on eating.

I was surprised at how many people speak English here but then I guess it's no surprise when you think about the Americans presence during the war. I have finally finished reading the history of Vietnam but think I may need to read it again. There is so much information to take in and understand that it's difficult to retain. Vietnamese money is quite interesting. I just watched a kid hold up a 100,000 dong note in the air towards the sky. The bills are printed onto transparent paper and has see-through parts in it. They don't rip or tear either. Me and my newly inherited Israeli family walked around the market near by. The kids stopped to look at crabs in a bowl. I loved playing with the kids. They also seemed to enjoy my company and it was difficult dividing my attention between the two of them. The eldest was the more dominant and the little one often felt left out and had to work harder to maintain my attention. They're sweet kids and so well behaved.

Later on in the afternoon I discovered a small cafe that was attracting quite a few locals. It was a simple coffee shop as was the process of making it. The girl kept disappearing behind the counter to prepare each order. There was nothing on the counter. No espresso machines. No Coffee making machines or anything of the likes. I wondered what she was doing behind that mysterious counter. Whatever she did, the coffee tasted amazing. It quite possibly was the best cup of coffee I have ever had. It was very thick and strong, mixed with sweet condensed milk. There was no need for sugar. I asked where I could buy the coffee and a man told me that I could find it easily in Hanoi and he gave me the name of it. I finished my coffee and continued to wander. I met a nice little old lady who tried to sell me silver bracelets and some opium. I said "not today, thank you" and walked away.

Lijiang to Dali

Naxi women walking through the old town of Lijiang

Wandered around the streets of Lijiang again. I bought a t-shirt and some books about Naxi pictographs and Dongba sayings. Naxi is the minority group that populates most of the Lijiang region. Dongba was their religion; a mix of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. The Naxi are famous for the creation of their own written language more than 1,000 years ago, using a combination of symbols and pictographs. It fascinated me and so I wanted to learn more about it. The dress of the Naxi is distinctive and most of the women continue to wear blue blouses and trousers covered by blue or black aprons. I learnt that the traditional T-shaped cape worn by the women has a dual function: it not only prevents chafing from the basket which is always worn on the back, but it also has symbolic meaning.

Mama arranges our bus back to Dali. She gives us each a necklace as a gift. We had our photo taken with her. We arrived at a guest house in Dali hoping that the swimming pool might be filled (unlike the last time when we wanted to stay here and they told us it would take a few days to fill). It wasn't even half full. Apparently the pool fills up naturally with fresh spring water. Not quite sure how that works but we end up staying anyway. I tried a Tibetan butter tea. It tasted awful. I have been reading this book about Shangri-La and the author is always drinking one so I thought I would give it a go. It tasted more like a sour butter soup.

Lijiang - Day II

Breakfast this morning was another unusual feast from 'Mama' (the owner) which included slices of flat bread, a fried egg and slices of tomato covered in sugar. As I attempted to eat the fried egg using my chopsticks I wondered if the Chinese ever question the effectiveness of their invention. I started thinking about all the unusual breakfasts that we've had so far. Olgar's fried cakey-omletty thing in Russia, the donut twists in Mongolia and the toast with shredded cabbage and teriyaki sauce in Japan.

Lijiang - Day I

This morning we endured 3 hours squashed on a small bus that took us to Lijiang, another old town in Yunnan. Lijiang is very much like Dali; a maze of cobbled streets and ancient architecture that takes you back almost 800 years. This town is listed as a world cultural heritage site. One interesting feature of this small town is the Jade River which winds its way through in a number of small streams. There are hundreds of small bridges that cross them. Even though this place is swarming with tourists and the shops sell the same old 'touristy' things, Lijiang is charming and a great place to relax. No cars. No bikes. And no pollution! We found the guest house that was recommended to us by a friend in Dali and then started exploring. At dinner, 'Mama' (the guest house owner) cooked some pretty good food for everyone and we all ate outdoors in the garden. I enjoyed sharing stories with the other travelers before having an early night.

Dali - Day III

The mosquito coils that I bought at the market yesterday seem to be working. I don't think I was bitten at all but Ali was sick all through the night and stayed in bed this morning. I bought her a snickers bar and a bottle of water then continued in search of breakfast. Today was miserable and gray. Later in the afternoon we watched Frieda at one of the nearby cosy cafes before having an early night.

Dali - Day II

We strolled through the markets of Dali just outside the old city wall. I saw everything from baskets being weaved to dentistry being performed on the side of the dirt road. One woman was getting a new tooth attached with some wire. At an antique store we met a Tibetan woman called Wang Li dressed in an orange saffron robe. She was telling us how to bargain for items and not to accept the asking price. We took a boat trip on the lake and visited a few villages on the other side. Ali broke some of the lady's merchandise as she dropped a couple of jade bracelets. They smashed into a million pieces. Of course the woman asked a small fortune for them. Back in the old town, Ali and I decided to take advantage of the cheap massages on offer. We both paid 2 pounds for 40 minutes of excruciating pain. Although I did feel better afterwards.

Dali - Day I

Ali ordered the watermelon juice and I tried Yunnan coffee for the first time. Last night I was eaten alive. I woke up during the night to the sound of mosquito's buzzing around me. This brutal attack lasted throughout the whole night. Ali of course slept right through. It seems the insects don't like her. I'm honored. This morning I counted sixteen bites, they must have had a field day. Our "American Breakfast" wasn't so American but it tasted good none-the-less. Today was mostly spent wandering around the small streets of Dali trying to resist the local art and craft shops. I didn't do very well. I bought 4 pieces of batik art, some embroidered trousers and some local photography.

Kunming to Dali

Breakfast was delicious. I was in heaven. We ate at the adjacent hotel's restaurant where there was a buffet style breakfast. I tried not to make a pig out of myself but failed miserably. I even stole a few bananas and cookies for the train ride. A lady on the train offered us what looked like wrapped sweets but were actually small fruits. They were very chewy and fruity with a sour after-taste. After 7 hours of awkward smiles and stares and unsuccessful conversation, we arrived in Xinjuan. From here we took bus number '8' to the old town of Dali. The views as we approached the old walled city were beautiful. A backdrop of mountains rose up into the clouds in the not so far distance. I like Dali. I think it will be a great place to relax for a few days. Our hotel room was less than a pound, food was cheap and we had no set itinerary for the next few days! We did nothing but meander around the quaint old cobbled streets which are bursting with laid back cafes, guest houses, bars, craft shops and boutiques.

Kunming

My back hurts from sleeping so much. There's nothing else to do on a 25 hour train journey except read. The views out of the window were quite interesting. Paddy fields existed anywhere that was physically possible. It looked like rocks had fallen from the sky. Their determination to farm on such hostile land was admirable. I guess they just have to make the most of what they have.

I arrived in Kunming and and my first impressions where quite unexpected. The city was clean, orderly and not polluted! This I liked, but what upset me was the fact that the city has two train stations. The map that I had drawn to help me get to the hostel was from a train station. Which one? I was lost. I needed help. A boy walked up to me and tried to sell me fake watches. I said "no" for the 4th time and then decided to ask for his help. I was shocked at his response. He said "f**k your mother" with a big smile on his face. I couldn't quite believe what he had said and so I asked him to repeat. "F**k you father" he said. I was outraged. He showed no remorse. I wondered if he actually knew what he was saying. I responded wisely and told him that he really shouldn't be saying things like that. "F**k you mother" he repeated again. I walked away from him and eventually found the hostel I was looking for. I confirmed Ali's arrival at reception and then met her shortly after. We talked about our experiences before having dinner with the missionaries. It was a very interesting evening to say the least.

Train to Kunming

I had just enough time to pick up some dumplings and coconut juice. This coconut juice was different. It had hundreds of nuts floating around in the bottom. I tried not to suck them up with the straw but it was impossible not to get a mouthful every time. I boarded the train for Kunming and settled into my 3rd level bunk.

Return to Chaos

People shouting, staring, pushing, shoving, spitting and complete chaos...It all started coming back to me as I entered the ticket office. I kept thinking back to the days when I purchased tickets in Japan. Such fond memories of civil behavior and efficiency beyond expectations. A massive contrast to where I am now. The woman threw my tickets and change at me. I didn't bother saying thank you. Such manners aren't necessary or welcomed here. I had been in China for 1 hour and 34 minutes and was already missing Hong Kong. Not for its shopping malls, skyscrapers,neon signs or even the expensive lyhee cocktails. I just miss civilized behavior. Maybe I just need another hour or so to re-adjust.

Hong Kong - Repulse Bay

The historic Duk Ling Junk sailing across Victoria Harbor

This morning I was successful in my second attempt to visit the small village of Stanley on the south side of Hong Kong Island. This time I boarded the right bus number 6! I wandered around the market, strolled along the beach and perused around the village before heading to the next place on my itinerary (I was on a mission to see as much as I could and desperately trying to make up for yesterday's disastrous attempts of sightseeing). It wasn't long before I arrived at Repulse Bay - a crescent-shaped strand of sand which is one of the most beautiful beaches in Hong Kong (according to the guide book). The first thing I did was swim in the brisk South China Sea. The second thing I did was stroll over to the Longevity Bridge at a near by temple on the beach. The bridge is supposed to add 3 days to your life each time you walk over it. I planned to walk over it 20 times which would be a remarkable extra 60 days for me to live!! I got bored after the 4th crossing (and realised I looked stupid). My itinerary also permitted me to sun bathe and allowed for 2 hours of chill out time. Life on the beach was great but very short-lived. It started raining as soon as I had finished rubbing in the factor 20. I got the next bus back to Central after lunch. After a brief wander around the city again I took the ferry back across Vicoria Harbor in hope that I would be just in time to see the Duk Ling Junk. Hundreds of these sailing boats used to crowd the waters around Hong Kong but now only one exists. It's free to go on but only operates on Thursday's and Saturday's. I couldn't get tickets for today as they had all been taken but it wasn't long before I realised that it was a blessing in disguise. I wanted a picture of the boat sailing with a view of the skyline behind it and this wouldn't be possible if I was on it. So, just as I had hoped, the historic junk sailed right past our ferry. The weather was horrid, grey and stormy, but it actually made for an interesting shot. I was happy with the results.

I went to the movie theatre (AGAIN!!!) on Kowloon side to see Mr & Mrs Smith. I wandered around Tsim Sha Tsui at night for the last time including the Peninsula where I watched the well-heeled mingle. When I found myself in the bar looking at price lists I decided it was time to call it a day and heading back to the hostel. The kung foo training hostel that is. I was quietly packing my bags until I heard all kinds of aggressive noises coming from the main room. I investigated. About 20 guys were doing interesting arm movements on each other and making loud noises. I asked another guest what they were doing. Apparently, the owner of this hostel (which really is also a martial arts training school) is very good friends with Bruce Lee and there are pictures of them all over the walls. I got even more tired just from watching them and sent myself to bed.

Hong Kong - Lost

A nice ladie from France took this one

Such a disappointing day. I had thought of a brilliantly marvelous itinerary only to have it flawed by misleading directions and bad weather. It all started when my guide book instructed me to "take bus number 6 from Exchange Square". I did that, and it took me all the way to Aberdeen instead of Stanley - the opposite end of the island. Apparently there are two bus number 6's and I of course had boarded the wrong one! I spent the hours between 9:00am this morning and 3:00pm trying to correct my mistakes one after another. It didn't help when almost every place sounded the same. They all seemed to include either; Wai, Lai, Mei, Chai or Tai. And with other names including the words; Hing, Hung, Tong, Fang, King, and Kok, it wasn't surprising they all started to merge after a few hours of studying them. I finally gave up at around 3:30pm when it started to rain and made my way back to Central via the visa office to pick up my passport. The only satisfying part of the day was when I once again gave in to my cravings and watched another movie. After seeing Star Wars on the big screen I took the Star Ferry back across Victoria Harbor to Kowloon for what seemed like the 100th time. I enjoyed the fresh air and reminded myself of the day's events (or lack of them). I still haven't tried the highly acclaimed dim sum but I did at least get to try a few other local delicacies today including 'dun tat' (sweet egg tart), 'bo lau bao' (pineapple bun) and some delicious noodles with 'won ton' (parcels filled with shrimp). I remain hopeful for tomorrow and have tweaked my newly proposed itinerary to perfection.

Hong Kong - Lantau Island

Tian Tan Buddha sitting gracefully at the top of Muyushan Mountain

I returned to the hostel at 11:00 am this morning. Needless to say, there were more than a few raised eyebrows. As I anticipated last night was a long evening. I ended up staying with my friends at the rather posh 5 star Mandarin Oriental. They kindly advised me that I had missed the last ferry back to Kowloon and recommended I stay with them at their luxury accommodation. I thought for all of 2 seconds and then happily accepted their offer.

I quickly changed clothes and hopped on the next ferry to Lantau island. The island is almost twice the size of Hong Kong Island but has a population of only 25,000. When I arrived I walked straight to the bus stop. A makeshift sign read "Tender exact fare or use octopus". I was a little confused. It wasn't until later when I realised that 'Octopus' is the name of the pre-paid transit card system in Hong Kong. A bus took me directly to Po Lin Monastery in Ngong Ping which is a plateau 500m above sea level in the western part of the island. The monastery was interesting but what really impressed me was Tian Tan Buddha - a 34 meter tall outdoor bronze Buddha which is the largest of it's kind in the world! The whole area around Muyushan mountain (upon which the extremely large Buddha sits) is surrounded by unusual flora, emerald green hills and misty clouds which made the whole experience really eerie. The statue was opened to the public in December 1993 after 10 years of construction. It weighs a staggering 250 tons. I climbed the 268 steps which lead to the top and admired the view from such a height. After a milky tea and a spring roll, a local bus took me all the way back to Hong Kong Island over the Tsing Ma bridge. The bridge, which spans 1377 meters across the Ma Wan Channel, is the second longest bridge in the world (after the Humber Bridge in Britain!) and is an award winning structure. It is listed in the Guiness World Records apparently.

I arrived in Tsuen Wan exhausted and decided to have a lazy evening at the movie theatre. I watched Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy. Never read the book/s but I really enjoyed the film.

Hong Kong - Retail Paradise

One of the many streets in Kowloon covered by neon and signs

This morning I knew exactly where to go for breakfast. First Cup Coffee was the perfect place to sit with a coffee and a ham & cheese toastie. I finished reading the HK Magazine (free local paper) to get some ideas on specific places to visit and help plan an itinerary for the week. I did exactly that. Unfortunately, the first place on the list was the not so interesting Chinese Visa Office in Wan Chai. The next five hours was spent waiting in a queue only to hand over my Chinese visa forms and passport to a woman. She told me I could pick it up in three days time. I need another visa just so that I can get back into the country when I leave Hong Kong and had to pay 40 pounds for it. So, with only half a day left I decided to explore the retail paradise of Hong Kong Island and took a tram ride from Wan Chai to Central. One of the first buildings that caught my attention was the Armani Charter House. I really was in heaven. I walked into the lobby, used the automatic sanitizing hand spray located at the concierge desk and observed my surroundings. Below me was Georgio Armani. Beside me was Georgio Armani, Georgio Armani Cosmetics, Emporio Armani, Armani Libri and Armani Fiori (yes...fiori as in flowers...an Armani flower store!!). Above me was more Emporio Armani and Armani Casa (furniture and the likes) plus several huge screens with catwalk shows and light displays. And of course, just across the street is Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and every other store you could possibly imagine. It was torture. I wanted everything!!!

I continued walking through Central past the palm trees and skyscrapers until I reached a different environment all together. Graham Street Market. Comfortably nestled along the narrow and extremely steep Graham Street was a fresh food market. I was fortunate enough to witness a fish being cut perfectly in half. So perfectly cut that all it's organs were still intact - it was still alive! I could see its heart pumping as it flapped around on the table waiting for someone to buy him. At the top of Graham Street my heart was racing. I had literally climbed up to the mid-levels of the mountains that separate the north from the south of the island. I browsed around a cool shop called Tao Evolution on peel street. They had some great prints by Bill Schwab and Peter Steinhauer of local people in Vietnam and Tibet. I walked back down the hill along Elgin Street only to discover a Man blow torching pigs feet on the sidewalk. I also noticed several Men walking around the streets with their caged birds. One gentleman even had a fitted cover for his bird cage - probably to protect the bird while walking through the city.

It was well past lunch time and I was in search of a restaurant called Cuisine Cuisine for some dim sum (rated the best in HK Magazine in a special top ten article). It was a great excuse to ride the tram again and stepped on board. The tram is a classic icon of Hong Kong and runs along a 13km (10 mile) main line on North Hong Kong Island. It was established about 100 years ago (as the sign above the tram reads) and apparently they are the only double-decker tram fleet operating in the world. They're really efficient and one comes about every 3 minutes. I'm not so impressed with the weather today. It's warm but very cloudy. After dinner at The House of Bento (gave up trying to find Cuisine Cuisine) I headed back to the hostel to get ready for a night out on the town. I went to Rice Bar, another place which was recommended in HK Magazine. It was nice but deadly quiet. Obviously Monday isn't a good night to be going out. I didn't mind and really enjoyed a proper drink in a nice bar and it wasn't long before I was joined by a friendly group of people. I made some friends and stayed with them for the rest of the evening. John made me upgrade to expensive lychee cocktails. I had a feeling tomorrow's itinerary might have to begin a little later than scheduled.

Hong Kong - A Sub-Tropical Metropolis

The metropolis of Hong Kong Island as viewed from Victoria Peak

Urghh! 13 hours on a train.

I couldn't sleep. At one point I was kneeling on the floor with my head resting on the seat. I was inspired after seeing the same position employed by another guy on the train. I arrived at Shenzhen at around 8:00 in the morning. I got off the train and walked out of the station all disoriented as usual. A new city. New streets. And no clue where I was going. It was one of those fortunate occasions where all the hands were pointing in the right direction. It was only a 10 minute walk to the border where I could conveniently get the metro into Hong Kong (after clearing passport control and customs that is). I took the metro to Tsim Sha Tsui and found a suitable hostel before even arriving at the one I intended to stay in. After a much needed shower and change of clothes I wasted no time and immediately hit the streets of Kowloon.

Again, one of those rare occasions when my eyes water with excitement - the Peninsula! Complete with its army of green Rolls-Royce parked outside the grand entrance. I was standing Exactly where James bond was in man with the golden gun. I drank the strongest espresso I've ever had. It blew my head off. I had stumbled upon a great place called First Cup Coffee (12 Hankou Road, Tsim Sha Tsui) which is a small independent cafe. They even told me about how coffee was first discovered. I learnt that it was in Ethiopian highlands when a goat herder noticed its effects on its goats after they had eaten the beans. Tsim Sha Tsui is a tourists ghetto in the southern tip of Kowloon. My hostel is just off Nathan Road which is packed with shops, hotels, bars and restaurants. I walked to the Hong Kong Cultural Center which faces the most incredible views of Hong Kong Island. The building itself is quite unusual considering it has no windows in it at all. I debated over which juice to try; water chestnut with grass jelly or mango sago. I opted for the water chestnut and didn't like it very much. I found it so difficult to resist the shops so I headed to the less tempting Mong Kok goldfish market on Tung Choi Street. Shop after shop had created displays of racks holding hundreds of bags each with a different type of fish swimming around inside. Prices were written directly on the bags with a marker. I was amazed at how big of a market their was for goldfish. Next I headed to the nearby Flower Market followed by the Bird Market, Clothes Market and then finally the Jade Market. I liked how the streets are dedicated/themed to particular merchandise. It must be great being a resident here; if you need flowers, you go to the Flower Market. If you need a bird...

The Bird Garden on Yuen Po Street was quite an experience. There was literally hundreds of square cages stacked up with birds in them. Some bigger, more exotic birds sat in elaborate hanging cages. The sound of them singing and squarking was almost nauseating. Birds are like pets for Chinese people. Their prices reflect the birds' singing ability rather than their appearance. As well as the countless birds on sale there was also accessory stalls that sold beautifully crafted wood and bamboo cages. I couldn't help but feel sorry for the birds locked up in such small cages though. I continued to meander around the streets. It's hard to believe you're in Asia with street names like; Prince Edward Road, Argyle Street, Portland Street, Cameron Road, Austin Road and Salisbury Road. And, almost everyone speaks English!

It wasn't much longer before I was experiencing Kowloon by night. I took the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor to Central on Hong Kong Island. The view of the skyline lit up at night was amazing. The Bank of China building, HSBC, Ritz Carlton and Mandarin Oriental are just a few of the spectacular buildings that line the outskirts of the island. The ferry ride only took 15 minutes and cost about 20 pence. As soon as I arrived in Central I randomly decided to take a double decker open top tour bus to Victoria Peak Tram Station. What I was about to see was definitely a sight to remember and even the tram ride was quite something. I swear we were almost vertical as we ascended up the hill. I was expecting it to be one of those clever hill trams that kept you perfectly horizontal the whole way. The peak tram is pulled by steel cables and climbs a total of 373 meters. It has been operating since 1888. In less than 3 minutes the tram had reached the summit. What was almost amazing as the view of Hong Kong from 1200 feet above sea level was the sight of a coffee shop. I of course indulged in a tall coffee of the day as I continued to admire the view from Victoria Peak. Everything looked so still and quiet. All I could hear was crickets from the bushes and trees below me. What makes the skyline of Hong Kong so much more impressive is the lush green backdrop of the mountains behind. I sat and looked at the free city guide that I picked up in the coffee shop. I considered eating at the Dan Ryan Chicago Grill for obvious reasons but rendered that option too difficult considering its location. On my way back to the hostel I was yet again (for the 20th time) offered a custom made to measure suit for 30 pounds. I milked my legs for the last remaining energy they had in them and walked to Cultural Center to see view again at night.

Our Separate Ways

This morning we arrived at the coach station early to catch our bus to Shangsha. I desperately needed to use the toilets and followed the pointing hands. I ran weaving in and out of the parked coaches until I finally arrived at the nasty looking structure with 'WC' painted on the wall. It was a familiar interior. One big trough in which to anything and everything you needed to do. I could deal with the less than hygienic or comfortable environment. What I did have problems with however, was squatting down along with the other men doing their business too. There were no screens! I just sat and smiled trying not to look. To make things even worse, I didn't have any toilet paper. So... I checked to see what kinds of old receipts I had in my wallet. An ingenious idea I thought. Unfortunately I had no receipts to discard and was forced to do the unthinkable. I selected the lowest denominations of Chinese currency and defaced General Mao in a rather distasteful fashion. I returned to the coach and told Ali about my expensive trip to the bathroom. She laughed for a long as I can remember. Luckily I picked up a couple of bowsers (steamed filled buns) and bananas for breakie. The usual rural sights passed us by as we headed along the bumpy road to Shangsha. Paddy fields, yaks and buffalos with farmers wearing cone hats. Women sold fruit on the side of the road. Others carried baskets like scales over the back of their neck. I read more information about Hong Kong. I'm now more excited than ever.

Once we arrived at Shangsha train station Ali and I arranged our alternative onward travel. Ali got tickets for Guilin and I got tickets for Hong Kong. Well, not directly - I have to take a train to Shenzhen which is close to the border crossing. We will be meeting in Kunming a week from tomorrow at the Camellia Hotel.

A Domestic Day

This morning Ali and I hand washed our clothes on the roof of the youth hostel. The process seemed to last a millennia. Ali announced that she had decided to visit Guilin instead of Hong Kong. It was final. We were to separate for one week and rendez-vous in Kunming. I cut Ali's hair for the second nerve-racking time. She complained it was a little uneven. I reminded her that I wasn't a hair dresser and have intention of being one!

More Rocks, Crags and Gullies

Just a few of the many limestone peaks we encountered while walking along the river

Today's climb was much harder than yesterdays. So many insects. I think it must be my sun lotion. I could hear Ali laughing behind me as I swung my arms around in the air like a mad man. I could hear them all around me. When I reached the top of the first set of steps I was greeted by a woman holding out a ladle full of what looked like wallpaper paste. I thanked her but expressed more interest in what was being fried in her pan. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw that she was selling roasted potatoes at the top of a mountain. And, they were just as tasty as they looked! We climbed further up into the mountains and saw more weird and wonderful insects and eccentric caterpillars. I saw two on the same step and tried to re-position them for a photo. They were very uncooperative.

We ended the hike with one last climb to the top of a temple for an almost birds-eye view of the mountains we had just climbed. I lost Ali in the process so I sat patiently with two devout men at the base of the temple. They tried to communicate with me but failed. One guy was stroking the hair on my legs as if he had never seen such a thing in his life. I amused them by writing in my journal. A butterfly flew onto my notebook just inches away from my face I couldn't believe it. It was so colourful and tame. The air is so fresh and clean here. I wondered what they were saying about me. I wish I could understand Chinese but pretend not to so that I could listen to their honest observations.

We took one of the free coaches which was already filled with Koreans to another part of the national park. They were much quieter than Chinese folk and very civilised. The man sitting next to me offered roasted chestnuts. We climbed Tianzishan (Tianzi Peak). Every rock, crag and gully had been given an elaborate name. It really was quite stunning. From this height it all started to make sense. I could see how the rocks were formed. It's quite simple really. Over thousands and thousands of years the continuous flow of water has eaten away at the rock leaving only sandstone peaks to remain. You forget just how high you are until a wispy cloud rolls in and wraps itself around a few tall narrow peaks.

Once we had satisfied and exhausted ourselves we took a bus back to the village to reclaim our baggage. We had left it all at the park entrance with the security staff. We then boarded another bus which took us all the way to Zhang Jia Jie city and found a hostel in the torrential rain. It was so warm and humid. I was hoping it would cool down after the storm but it never did. I discovered a street vendor at the end of our street. We sat at the small table under a canopy and ate fried food. We selected various items on sticks and waited while the woman placed them into a large vat of frying oil to cook. Items of food we selected included fish, unfamiliar (but good) crunchy slices of a vegetable we hadn't seen before, green beans, tofu, egg, potato and even a banana. And of course, no street food dining in China would be complete without a couple of bottles of Tsing Tao beer to wash it all down with. Ali used the beer caps to help illustrate her proposed itinerary for our remaining 19 days in China. We talked in detail about the possibility of us going our separate ways. Ali was torn. Hong Kong or Guilin?

Climbed Huangshizhai

Feeding the hungry monkeys

1048 meters high. 3878 stone steps. Words can not describe!!! The beauty of this landscape was stunning. Everywhere I looked there was steep rocky peaks. Some of which were so tall and narrow I wondered how they managed stay upright. I could hear the sounds of water trickling and dropping onto lush green leaves around me. This was my first sub-tropical experience so I was excited to see such flora and flora that I hadn't seen before (or at least in it's natural environment). We hiked for hours up the stone stairs to the top of peaks and through dense forests that somehow managed to grow out the steep rock faces. At the very beginning of our hike we saw a few monkeys casually walk past us. Three of them walked right in front of me so I pulled out my packet of banana chips. The monkeys stopped in their tracks as they heard the rustling sound of a packet opening. Ali shrieked "uh oh". Before I knew it the three monkeys were at my feet standing on two legs with their arms stretched out. I pulled out a banana chip and the larger of the three monkeys grabbed it out of my hand. This procedure repeated about 20 times until I realised that the monkeys had ate a third of my food supply. I stopped feeding them and continued on my way. Drips of fresh mountain dew dropped onto my bare skin. The smell. The butterflies. It was all so lush and fresh. Every now and then I would see another monkey swing in the trees in the corner of my eye. I was convinced they were closing in on me for more food. Kept thinking about the film 28 days later. Occasionally we would overtake a few tourists. Most of them were Chinese but we did see the odd westerner once in a while. The Chinese wore the most unsuitable clothes for hiking. I saw one middle aged woman wearing heeled shoes, jeans and a wool jacket. The men looked even funnier. They looked as if they had just left the office wearing shirts, trousers and formal footwear. I mean, what on earth where they thinking? "Darling, do you think these thick tight jeans and heeled white shoes would be ok for hiking 3878 slippery stone steps?".

I noticed I sign that said "Suggestions to the guests: Mother-Son Peak viewing spot is the best place to breathe the air anion reaching over 100 thousand per cubic meter. The germ contained in the air is reduced to zero. Advise you breathe deeply there 15 times". Mmm, okay!


Sub-tropical flora and fauna all around us

We looked up at Golden whip rock - a 350 meter high peak towering above us. I watched Mr Feng Jingbin paint using his palms and fingers with unique craftmanship. I bought one of his paintings. His shop was on Jinbian stream within the national park. He looked at me and started to cut my profile out of a piece of black felt. It was a cross between me and Pinochio. He signed and stamped it before handing the card to me. Once we left the park we were helped by a tour guide. After indicating where we wanted to go (the northern areas in the park to stay the night) she told us to follow her. We ended up taking the coach with her and the entire tour group. We were the only ones not wearing the special white tour caps. I felt left out. She took us back to the main town of Zhang Jia Jie where we had originally started off 2 days ago - Nowhere near where we wanted to be. We stayed the night with the tour group in their hotel and went to bed early. Instant noodles for tea again.