The metropolis of Hong Kong Island as viewed from Victoria Peak
Urghh! 13 hours on a train.
I couldn't sleep. At one point I was kneeling on the floor with my head resting on the seat. I was inspired after seeing the same position employed by another guy on the train. I arrived at Shenzhen at around 8:00 in the morning. I got off the train and walked out of the station all disoriented as usual. A new city. New streets. And no clue where I was going. It was one of those fortunate occasions where all the hands were pointing in the right direction. It was only a 10 minute walk to the border where I could conveniently get the metro into Hong Kong (after clearing passport control and customs that is). I took the metro to Tsim Sha Tsui and found a suitable hostel before even arriving at the one I intended to stay in. After a much needed shower and change of clothes I wasted no time and immediately hit the streets of Kowloon.
Again, one of those rare occasions when my eyes water with excitement - the Peninsula! Complete with its army of green Rolls-Royce parked outside the grand entrance. I was standing Exactly where James bond was in man with the golden gun. I drank the strongest espresso I've ever had. It blew my head off. I had stumbled upon a great place called First Cup Coffee (12 Hankou Road, Tsim Sha Tsui) which is a small independent cafe. They even told me about how coffee was first discovered. I learnt that it was in Ethiopian highlands when a goat herder noticed its effects on its goats after they had eaten the beans. Tsim Sha Tsui is a tourists ghetto in the southern tip of Kowloon. My hostel is just off Nathan Road which is packed with shops, hotels, bars and restaurants. I walked to the Hong Kong Cultural Center which faces the most incredible views of Hong Kong Island. The building itself is quite unusual considering it has no windows in it at all. I debated over which juice to try; water chestnut with grass jelly or mango sago. I opted for the water chestnut and didn't like it very much. I found it so difficult to resist the shops so I headed to the less tempting Mong Kok goldfish market on Tung Choi Street. Shop after shop had created displays of racks holding hundreds of bags each with a different type of fish swimming around inside. Prices were written directly on the bags with a marker. I was amazed at how big of a market their was for goldfish. Next I headed to the nearby Flower Market followed by the Bird Market, Clothes Market and then finally the Jade Market. I liked how the streets are dedicated/themed to particular merchandise. It must be great being a resident here; if you need flowers, you go to the Flower Market. If you need a bird...
The Bird Garden on Yuen Po Street was quite an experience. There was literally hundreds of square cages stacked up with birds in them. Some bigger, more exotic birds sat in elaborate hanging cages. The sound of them singing and squarking was almost nauseating. Birds are like pets for Chinese people. Their prices reflect the birds' singing ability rather than their appearance. As well as the countless birds on sale there was also accessory stalls that sold beautifully crafted wood and bamboo cages. I couldn't help but feel sorry for the birds locked up in such small cages though. I continued to meander around the streets. It's hard to believe you're in Asia with street names like; Prince Edward Road, Argyle Street, Portland Street, Cameron Road, Austin Road and Salisbury Road. And, almost everyone speaks English!
It wasn't much longer before I was experiencing Kowloon by night. I took the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor to Central on Hong Kong Island. The view of the skyline lit up at night was amazing. The Bank of China building, HSBC, Ritz Carlton and Mandarin Oriental are just a few of the spectacular buildings that line the outskirts of the island. The ferry ride only took 15 minutes and cost about 20 pence. As soon as I arrived in Central I randomly decided to take a double decker open top tour bus to Victoria Peak Tram Station. What I was about to see was definitely a sight to remember and even the tram ride was quite something. I swear we were almost vertical as we ascended up the hill. I was expecting it to be one of those clever hill trams that kept you perfectly horizontal the whole way. The peak tram is pulled by steel cables and climbs a total of 373 meters. It has been operating since 1888. In less than 3 minutes the tram had reached the summit. What was almost amazing as the view of Hong Kong from 1200 feet above sea level was the sight of a coffee shop. I of course indulged in a tall coffee of the day as I continued to admire the view from Victoria Peak. Everything looked so still and quiet. All I could hear was crickets from the bushes and trees below me. What makes the skyline of Hong Kong so much more impressive is the lush green backdrop of the mountains behind. I sat and looked at the free city guide that I picked up in the coffee shop. I considered eating at the Dan Ryan Chicago Grill for obvious reasons but rendered that option too difficult considering its location. On my way back to the hostel I was yet again (for the 20th time) offered a custom made to measure suit for 30 pounds. I milked my legs for the last remaining energy they had in them and walked to Cultural Center to see view again at night.
