An Unforgettable Christmas

Ali and I pull crackers on the beach

Christmas is the only day of the year that guarantees I'll be with my family, open presents and eat almost my entire body weight in delicious food. It's that special time when Mum buys enough meat, pastries, cakes and alcohol to feed a small village, then still wonders if she should have bought that lovely cheese board from M&S "just in case". This Christmas was far from usual however.

Myself, Ali, Ella and Mark (Ali's flatmates) set off early on Christmas day for an exciting 3 hour road trip south along the coast to Jervis Bay. Upon arrival we located our spot in the campsite and surveyed our surroundings. The intimate white sandy bay proved to be the perfect setting for an unforgettable Christmas. Snow was replaced with sand. Red robins were substituted by parrots and cockatoos. Christmas tree with palms. In fact there was nothing traditional about this Christmas at all except for our redeeming roast turkey dinner, Christmas crackers and Santa hats. Despite the fact that our tropical environment wasn't at all very festive we were determined to maintain as many other traditional elements as possible.


Our festive dinner table


Mark apparently endured a rather unpleasant soaking

I enthusiastically set the dinner table as I would normally do back at home. Except it wasn't really a table it was more of a very large blanket delicately placed on the sand. Ali and Ella started cooking the vegetables on the gas stove while Mark and I made sure we all had a cold beer in our hands. Because it was so damn hot, us boys rotated time in the 'kitchen' with the girls so that we could each take turns to keep cool in the water. Our efforts were well rewarded as dinner was a huge success. Afterwards we opened our gifts. Ali and I both received water pistols which was heaps of fun. We continued to listen to music and pull Christmas crackers on the beach. Naturally, beer and bubbly was consumed throughout the afternoon and fueled many water fights or dangerous explorations around rocks. Once we exhausted ourselves with all that we took a long nap under the warming sun. We awoke to find ourselves, in astonishment, the only ones left on the beach. And just in time to watch the sun set too.


We awoke from our binge related nap just in time

Now, without the help of daylight, we decided to erect the tents. I suppose we had momentarilly forgot that such an activity needed implementing. I suggested that we use the headlights from our car so that at least had some light on the subject. Ali and Ella happily stood and watched as me and Mark fumbled around with sheets, pegs, strings and poles which amused them to no end. I'm proud to announce that we errectd the tent surprisingly quickly and were settled in no time at all. We did however do one last amazing thing before finally going to bed and that was sneaking back to the beach to star gaze. There were billions of them. Truly an amazing sight.

Life as a Sydneysider

Newtown

It’s yet another gloriously sunny day and I’m sitting inside an indulgently decorated dark room drinking a flat white at La Boemia Caffe Emporio, the coffee shop beneath our guesthouse. As I had initially suspected upon my arrival I am in fact a regular customer here and have since gotten to know the staff quite well. Marco, the owner, saw me one day sitting at a table happily tapping away at my laptop when he kindly offered me the use of his “cigar room”. He suggested that the air conditioned and comfortably furnished interior would be a better place for me to work. The room is, as the appropriate name suggests, a place where people can smoke cigars and drink coffee surrounded by antique furniture, rococo drapery and an impressive display of baroque framed art. I spent more time studying the contents of the room than actually doing any work. I asked Marco if the room was popular with the locals but surprisingly he told me that just recently he decided to close it. Apparently the room wasn’t much of a success largely due to the fact that even when just two people occupied the room it discouraged others from entering. He said that customers were intimidated by other people who had already made themselves comfortable and it was as if they had claimed the entire room for themselves. Marco suggested a different layout and some additional tables might solve the problem but for now it remained closed. Except to me of course. The cigar room has just become my new studio. You’re probably still wondering what a flat white is…I didn’t know either until after my first coffee shop experience in Newtown. I confidently walked into a coffee shop called Corelli’s on King Street and requested a regular coffee. The large gothic inspired queen behind the counter asked sharply “what kind of coffee” without even looking at me. I replied “well, just a drip coffee. Filtered coffee perhaps.” He looked up and with an impatient tone of voice said “we don’t do that.” “Okay, well…” and I looked at the espresso machine in front of him and figured that it was going to have to be a bar drink. The next best thing to a regular coffee is an Americano which is a shot of espresso topped up with hot water so I offered “…erm, an Americano.” “No! We don’t do that either…look, what is it you want. A latte or something?” I didn’t want a latte. I didn’t want a cappuccino, macchiato or anything like that. “Just a normal coffee, don’t you have anything like that” I asked. “Flat white. That’ll be two fifty please.” I didn’t even bother asking him what the hell made up a flat white but whatever it was it tasted good. I have since learnt that it is two thirds coffee and one third milk. I never went back to that coffee shop.

The Australians seem to have a different name for everything here. I was shocked to see a sign in a bar saying “No Thongs Please” until I later learnt that thongs are the ozzie name for flip flops. Singlets the name for ladies vests. Schooner the name of a pint glass (although it’s actually nowhere near as big as a pint). Even long established international brands seem to feel the need to join the bandwagon and change their name. Burger King is called “Hungry Jack’s” and Walls ice-cream for some bizarre reason have decided to re-name themselves “Streets.”

I had fun at the supermarket a few days ago. It’s been a while since I last shopped for groceries and I found it remarkably soothing. I was amazed at how quickly I settled back into the routine of spending lord knows how long standing in front of packaged goods trying to justify their purchase and convince myself that a $4.50 jar of Italian green stuffed olives would not be a frivolous purchase. My first real difficult decision making experience took place at the cheese section. Ever since I left Italy I have been craving three things. Coffee, cheese and wine. Most places in Asia do not supply these products or if they do, they’re outrageously expensive (for obvious reasons) or locally produced and therefore disgusting. After much thought I decided that I really just fancied some plain and simple cheddar so I checked to see what was on offer. “Sharp,” “tasty” or “mild” seemed to be the choice. I went for “tasty” assuming that meant it was medium in strength. Then I spent a while looking for the wine and spirits section until I was told that it is against the law for supermarkets to sell alcohol here.

I have just started working part-time at a bar on King Street called Zanzibar which is turning out to be a lot more than I bargained for. The bar has three floors which include a rooftop terrace, cocktail lounge and main bar. I have been working outdoors on the rooftop familiarizing myself with the strange accents, unfamiliar products and strict staff procedures. I have worked in bars with high standards before but this place “takes the biscuit”. Coopers Draught, Toohey’s New, Victoria Bitter…all names of beer that I have never heard of which people ask for. I would have a better chance of identifying the drink they requested if it wasn’t for the additional challenge of an Australian accent. Next week I will be starting to learn how to make cocktails. Not just make them…but spin the bottles and light things on fire known as “flaring”. They reckon in three weeks time I will be “flaring my tits off”. Last night the bartenders put on a show for a private function and lit the whole bar surface on fire while spinning flaming bottles in the air. I wondered why a bar that is so strict on health and safety matters allowed such activities to take place. In contrast, I have also been asked to attend a second interview for a senior graphic design position in the city and have already resumed work for old clients in Chicago.

Tales from Lilting House

Today Ali and I met up for a late lunch at Coogie Bay. It’s Bank Holiday Monday and the whole beach and surrounding bars were packed with thousands of lively locals. It was a huge outdoor summer party and apparently everyone was invited. We met at Coogie Bay Hotel outside in the beer garden where the sun seemed to be directing all of its heat. Ali and I immediately began to catch up on each others lives. Because we hadn’t been together for almost a week it was strange to all of a sudden have so much to tell each other. Ali was telling me about her interesting job which involves door to door sales asking for donations helping the Heart Research Foundation. She enjoys the challenge and it’s a great way for her to explore Sydney and the surrounding suburbs. Ali asked if my apartment was suitable so I told her about my experiences so far...

Cheap accommodation in a great neighborhood has it’s drawbacks, or qualities depending on how you look at it. A few weeks ago while searching the streets for an apartment, Ali and I came across an intriguing place called Lilting House. I had already decided that Newtown was the neighborhood I wanted to live in because I fell in love with it as soon as I lay eyes on it. King Street, which borders Newtown and Erskenville, is the main drag for independent coffee shops, funky boutiques and a great selection of friendly bars and restaurants. The sign on Enmore Road (just off King Street) read “Lilting House Hotels” but looked more like a guesthouse than a hotel. Since they were closed I wrote down the number and continued onward in search of the perfect apartment. A week later I found the number in my wallet, gave them a call and went to take a look around. It was quiet, clean and cheap. In fact, for just $80 a week it was a steal. I moved in a week later once my friend Gino left. Since moving in a few days ago I have talked with a few of the other guests and the following are descriptions of my experiences with each of them (in order of appearance).

Naile aged 25 is from Ireland and likes to drink. No surprises there, but when we decided to go down to Kelly’s on King (the Irish bar on King Street) for a few drinks he loosened up a little and began to talk in detail about his lurid past. Apparently, it was just over a year ago when Naile worked as a carpenter for one of the worlds largest drug syndicates in Spain. His skills in carpentry and passion for fine woodwork was put to good use by helping disguise and hide large amounts of illegal substances in pieces of furniture. This made him “a shite load of money” and helped him purchase expensive cars and cheap women until his love of woodwork was replaced by gambling. Subsequently he lost most of his money on poker games and practically ruined himself. One day he “woke up, smelt the coffee” and decided to do something about his unhealthy lifestyle. Naile quit his "carpentry" job (fortunately with no hard feelings) and came to Sydney where he now hopes to settle down. He left his girlfriend in Ireland with her 2 year old daughter (Naile isn’t the father) with the hope that they will both eventually emigrate to Australia and start a new life together as a family. Since that interesting conversation, we have seldom seen each other except for last night…I had arrived back from the dry cleaners when we saw each other in the courtyard. I asked him how things were going and he replied “Am alright, yeah, but if you don’t mind ah’d love to get rid o’these” and expressed discomfort in his back. All of a sudden it came flooding back to me. I had a few pints that night (actually, they call them scooners here and they’re not as big as a pint) when he asked me to do this favor for him. I had, until now, completely forgot about it. I remembered that I had stupidly agreed to remove all 13 of the stitches in his back for him. Naile recently had surgery to remove malignant moles and was due to have the stitches removed a few days ago. Now that I was a little more sober I recommended he seek professional medical attention and reminded him that I know nothing about how to remove stitches. I have difficulties dealing with stitched clothing never mind someone’s body. But somehow he managed to convince me that it would be really easy and that it wasn’t worth him paying medical expenses for such a “simple procedure”. Yes, simple maybe for a trained nurse. I wasn’t a trained nurse but nonetheless I followed him upstairs to his room. He handed me the small scissors and reassured me by saying “I think these should be sharp enough” and leaned against the chest of drawers. To spare the bloody details, the operation wasn’t a success and Naile almost fainted. I left him alone in his room half stitched. Neither of us could continue.

My room mate is called Villee (pronounced veel-eh) and he’s from Finland. We first met in our room one afternoon when he had just come in from work. Villee is with two of his friends who are sleeping in the room next door and are here to make money so they can continue traveling. They work in removals and Villee rarely has a day off. He has bleached hair, several tattoos and big muscles. The following morning I awoke to discover he had already left for work. Tired and disorientated, I almost fell out of my top bunk and gathered my things to take a shower. I opened the horrid old antique closet in our room and the door fell apart in my hands hitting me on the head. Rubbing my face better, I reached into the closet to grab my towel, pulled it out and accidentally knocked his expensive collection of Calvin Clien toiletries onto the floor. The plastic containers smashed into a million pieces. The day might as well have just ended right then for I was I no mood to continue. I didn’t see Villee until the following morning when I confessed and offered to pay for another set of toiletries. He said that wasn’t necessary because the products could still be used.

My first experience with Trivia (not sure of the correct spelling but she pronounces it triv-ee-ay with an unusual Australian accent) was a little disturbing to say least. Me and Naile were in the lounge room watching TV when Trivi walked into the room and asked if she could watch the 6 o’clock news. I changed the channel and the three of us watched the news together. Every time the news presenter introduced a new headline Trivi moaned and groaned with distressed emotions like she was witnessing some sort of horrific execution right in front of her. “Oh….oh, oh m.y g.o.d…, noooo, oh, can you believe that, oh..oh my god” she said with her hands over her mouth, taking the occasional exasperated gasp in response to such terrible news like “..and the Sydney Tigers were defeated today as…” I mean for crying out loud. The next experience with Trivi was when we were sitting outside in the courtyard and all of a sudden a car drove by and people from within started shouting “you prostitute…fuckin’ whore…Maori bitch”. Trivi instantly stood up shaking and peered through the cracks in the metal security door to our yard. Neither of us could see beyond the wall but Trivi was quite sure those hostile remarks were aimed at her. I asked who these people were and why they were saying such nasty things. Trivi, of Maori decent, told me they were angry aboriginals who were jealous of her family. She continued to tell me about how she was welcomed into their community and learnt many things about their culture. So much so that she can even read or understand aboriginal art and instantly recognize the artist. As I understand it, many of Trivi’s friends have been treated badly by aboriginal men after they have married them and are generally very troublesome. Trivi wants nothing more to do with the Australian aboriginals, much to their dismay apparently.

Smellyman, as I like to call him, must be in his late 40’s and is never seen dressed in anything other than a suit. I haven’t spoken to him yet as he pretty much keeps himself to himself, except for his smell that is, which seems to linger in the air for a good few minutes even after he’s left the vicinity. But like I said, I’m in a great neighborhood and I find the guests more amusing and entertaining than offensive.

Exploring Sydney

Needs no introduction

There I was standing in front of yet another world famous landmark. The Sydney Opera House, which took 14 years and $102 million to build ($95 million more than was anticipated), was another tick off the checklist of things to see around the world. I was here with my friend Gino from Chicago who has come to visit me for a 7 day vacation. After taking photographs of the building from every conceivable angle we decided to purchase tickets for tonight’s concert — The Damnation of Faust — by the Sydney Symphony.

THIS ENTRY IS INCOMPLETE. MORE TO COME!

Unexpected Language Difficulties

Now I have a cold. I suppose it’s due to such extreme differences in climate. I had to wear pj’s for bed last night. Anne’s house, like every other in Australia, has no central heating or double glazing. My hands are freezing even indoors. I am grateful however that Anne offered to let us stay at her apartment until I found a place of my own. Despite the fact that Anne has only recently moved into her apartment (three weeks ago) and has very little furniture, it’s so nice to be in a home for once. Even the smallest of pleasures like a cup of coffee first thing in the morning is so comforting not to mention a nice clean hot shower (that actually works).

Ali and I went shopping today to buy warm clothes. A ‘hoodie’ to be specific. It was such a strange feeling to be in such a developed city again. A place that thrives with capitalism. I needed restraining again and luckily Ali was only too happy to help. “What do you need another t-shirt for?…You don’t need one of those do you?.” We ran around the mall for hours searching frantically for the perfect sweatshirt before they closed when I started experiencing something strange. I was having problems speaking to people and even the sales assistants were proving to be a challenge for me. A familiar problem that I remember occurring in Chicago when I first moved there. I seem to have lost my local tongue. Probably from not using it for some time. Let me explain…since traveling around southeast Asia we have encountered many language barriers and the result of which has stripped me of the ability to speak with personality. For example, when I was in China I used only very simple words – almost like conversing with a baby – because locals naturally don’t speak English very well and can’t understand even the smallest deviation from proper pronunciation or vocabulary. Basically, you can’t speak slang or infuse humor into a remark. So after a while you just get used to speaking like an infant. Now, all of a sudden I’m faced with an Australian sales assistant in a jeans shop asking the most simplest of questions “Hey, how’s it going?” and I hesitate to think of a response. I start searching in my head for that lost vocabulary, accent and personality that I once had. I can’t tell you how strange it is to be so self-conscious about how you talk. At 5pm the shops closed. I found a sweater just in time but Ali wasn’t so fortunate. By the time she had decided it was too late to go back and get the one she liked. Well, at least one of us will be warm tonight.

Bangkok to Sydney

After spending the whole day at Bangkok airport I can now claim to have read every major creative magazine available in the entire terminal. Once we finally boarded the plane I gazed out the window. As the plane left the ground at some ridiculously high speed Ali and I both instinctively waved goodbye to Southeast Asia. I started to think about the many places that we have been to so far. I still couldn’t quite believe that we've traveled over ground all the way from Berlin to Bangkok. As I sat there in my nice comfy seat on the 747 I thought about all the interesting journeys we’ve endured so far. The crazy drivers in Poland who don’t know how to use a handbrake. The confined life onboard Trans-Siberian trains. The crowded over-booked trains in China. From PingYao to Xi’an with a mad man who tried to kill people. The coach in Shanghai where the driver allowed us to sleep overnight in the depot. The extremely efficient and super fast Shinkansen (bullet train) in Japan. The boat ride with fishermen from Phu Quoc to Chow Doc in Vietnam. The recent and unforgettable boat ride from hell that took us across the hostile Andaman from Koh Phi Phi to Phuket. And now we’re on QF0302, our first flight in just under 6 months. At her request I leaned over Ali and looked out the window to catch a birds-eye glimpse of Sydney down below. The famous bridge stretching across the harbor. The all too familiar looking opera house. I couldn’t believe I was actually here. It finally hit me, we were in Australia!!!

We got our luggage, walked out of the ‘arrivals’ exit and stepped out onto Ozzie land for the first time. It was chilly like a dull English spring day. The air was crisp and after a while standing around waiting for a taxi I became cold and in need of something warm to wear. I realized summer hadn’t quite started in Sydney yet and wondered how long I’d have to wait before it was possible to wear shorts again. A taxi took us straight to Anne’s house where we’re going to stay for short while. Anne is Ali’s friend from London who emigrated here just a few weeks ago but kindly offered to let us stay with her. Anne lives in Maroubra which is a suburb quite far south of the city. Her apartment is a stones throw away from the beach which is a less crowded and more peaceful version of other popular beaches closer to the city. There are a few coffee shops, café’s and fish shops scattered along the seafront which caters to all the surfers and local residents. I like it here because there doesn’t seem to be many tourists. It's a local beach for local people. Anne asked us what we would like for dinner and if there was something we hadn’t had for a while. I instantly shouted “fish and chips” with excitement. So we ate Fish and chips from a shop just around the corner and god where they good! I have a feeling it wont be long before I try them again.

Phuket via Near Death

If someone asks “what was your worst journey on the whole trip?” I can tell them without hesitation that it was the excruciating 90 minute boat ride across the Andaman from Koh Phi Phi to Phuket. The sea was rough and the boat was old. I was close to being sick. I closed my eyes every time a huge wave lifted the boat to a great height and then fearfully anticipated the harsh descend as we crashed back down against the water. I tried not to hear the smashing noises. I tried not to look at the floor bending. The entire structure of the boat looked as if it were about to fall apart. Swaying violently from left to right, waves crashing against the windows. Ali thought she was going to be sick and made her way up to the top of the boat to stand outside on the deck. I was convinced we were going to die and I’m pretty sure everyone else on the boat thought the same. I looked around to see the same worried look on everyone’s ghastly white face. It wasn’t long before I started calculating escape routes in my mind. I wondered how much insurance our families would get if either of us died. If the boat tipped over or sunk I questioned who had a better chance of survival - me inside or Ali on the deck? And the sharks…what were the chances?

Finally after what seemed like an eternity we safely arrived in Phuket where we made our way to a guesthouse. It took me the rest of the day to recover from shock and sickness. Frankly I think it’s a miracle we’re still alive.

The Aftermath

A view of the beach

Koh Phi Phi is a beautiful island without a doubt. The mountains, limestone cliffs, white sandy beaches, clear water. But it’s unsettling. Although the island is "back in business" it has by no means recovered from the effects of the tsunami. Palm trees stripped of their branches. Debris everywhere you look. Tiled surfaces on the ground where buildings once stood. Such destruction. When we saw the sign posted on a palm tree asking for volunteers to help clear the beaches of debris, we immediately made arrangements for the next day. Ali and I helped remove rubbish and construction debris from the beach but it will take a long time before the island is fully restored to it’s former glory. One man who had set up a restaurant by the beach beneath one of the few original structures still remaining showed me some beautiful pictures of a luxurious pool at a 5-star resort. I said “that place looks incredible, where is it?” He pointed to an empty concrete structure just a few meters away and said “follow me.” I walked up the stairs behind him to the top where the pool area was. I looked at the picture and then back at the pool which had been ruined by the tidal wave. It must have been paradise. Swimming up to the poolside bar and looking out at the amazing views. The natural views still exist of course but the once bustling life on this heavenly island has now been replaced with rubble. I’m pleased we came though as tourism is the only source of income on this island. The high spirited locals really appreciate our business and show it with friendly smiles everywhere you look. I feel happier knowing we helped even if it was in a very small way.

Koh Phi Phi

Our bungalow

I’m so hot I can’t think about anything but ways to keep cool. Beads of sweat are rolling off my face and onto my journal. I’m now going to have to write around the wet parts on the pages. It’s even a struggle to sit and write. Our bungalow is nice – quite possibly the nicest we’ve stayed in although it’s a little further form the beach. We are on a small but farrang* infested island called Koh Phi Phi just off the west coast of Thailand. We stayed overnight in Krabi and then took the boat across this afternoon. I’ve just showered. I don’t know why because I’m already drenched from perspiration again. Our bungalow is sort of French-Colonial looking and made entirely from wood. It has a wrap around balcony, double doors, polished dark wood floor, bamboo furniture, an antique style standing gold fan and one of those great mosquito nets that suspend from a ring on the ceiling and wrap around the entire bed. The bathroom is quite cool too with an outdoor shower. While I was showering I looked up to see the unusual sight of palm trees shooting skyward and exploding with branches above me. It’s really nice, but the heat…urghh, the heat!

I’m anxious to see what this island has in store for us because I wasn’t entirely thrilled with what we experienced on our arrival. Tons of young travelers and party-goers seem to dominate the area and I still haven’t seen a beach worth bathing on. There’s definitely no shortage of bars here but that’s not really what we’re looking for. I’m hoping that we are in a good location not too far from the fun if we want it but closer to a more serene and relaxing environment. The island boasts some of the most spectacular scenery which includes limestone cliffs and beautiful beaches lined with palm trees. As we walked through the main street it was quite obvious that this was an island still rebuilding itself after total destruction from the recent tsunami devastation. There was an eerie feeling about the place that was quite strange. All these holiday makers were getting drunk, spending money and having fun whilst the aftermath of the disaster was still so clearly evident. I understand that this money is needed to help rebuild the island and keep locals in business but it just didn’t seem right. Not really sure where I’m going with this. I suppose it’s difficult to describe. I just remembered, I forgot to take my pills. I feel like such an old man. I have five different pills to take either before or after meals to help reduce my ear infection. Apparently I caught something from the not so clean water. The pain is unbearable at times. Well, I’ve cooled off now so it’s time to explore!

*Apparently, this local term is used to describe foreigners (cocasians to be specific.) The word ‘farrang’ is actually the Thai name for mango. No. I don’t see the connection either.

Koh Phangan

Long beach in Koh Phangan where we stayed

Despite my very painful ear infection I am enjoying some last minute relaxation on the beach. I often think about Australia and can’t wait to settle down, make new friends and start working again. I find myself day dreaming about what might be and only hope that this next part of our big adventure meets my expectations. If all goes according to plan, Sydney should be the perfect respite from the everyday wear and tear on the mind, body and soul caused by traveling. Although this trip has been an amazing experience I won’t deny that I have found it extremely difficult at times. Although I’m used to the never ending changing faces and places the process doesn’t get any easier. I long for the familiarities of friends and family.


Ali with our creative backgammon project

This morning I decided it would be a fun idea to make a giant backgammon board in the sand on the beach. Ali helped me gather stones and collect leaves for the counters. It took me a while to figure out what to use as a dice until it finally hit me…a coconut! Much to an onlooker’s dismay, Ali and I pulled a coconut off a tree and apologized to the old lady who was shaking her head with disgust. I used a pen to write the numbers around the widest part of the fruit and then all we had to do was throw it in the air and watch where it landed. We used whichever number was at the top, i.e the one furthest from the ground. As we played against each other in the scorching midday heat we raised a few eyebrows and even received a compliment. I lost the game. Probably because I was constantly blinded by the nasty mixture of sweat and sun lotion dripping into my eyes every two minutes. To be honest, I couldn’t wait for the game to end and it seemed to go on forever. One of the biggest problems was that the numbers 6 and 1 were so close together and it was difficult to determine which one should be used. Ali frequently tried to claim “six” until I would come and examine the coconut and demand a re-throw. As soon as the game ended I ran into the sea to cool down. The water was perfect. I wondered what life by the sea in Australia will be like.


Look, a hammock!


Ali

Snorkeling in Koh Tao

Me and Adi on the boat just before snorkeling


What do I do with these?

Since Ali had decided she was going to spend most of the day partaking in a scuba diving refresher course, me and Addi decided to do the next best (and cheaper) option of snorkeling. Our organized trip involved taking a small boat around the entire island stopping off at various locations along the way to snorkel and swim with the fish. The first stop was only about a mile further north up from where we started. Our guide told us we had 30 minutes at this stop so I quickly put on my flippers and jumped in without wasting time. The water was warm and crystal clear. I put on my mask, inserted the mouth piece and began to snorkel. I saw hundreds of what looked like really thick giant worms lying on the sea bed doing absolutely nothing that are called sea cucumbers. There was some interesting coral and the odd fish here and there, but for me, this stop was more about familiarizing myself with the equipment and figuring out the best way to swim with fins attached to my feet. I have never snorkeled or dived before so this took some getting used to. I had just lifted my head out of the water to empty my mouthpiece of water when I momentarily freaked out. A few of the girls who where a little further out where shouting “shark, shark”. I was about to race back to the boat until it became obvious that it was a friendly shark. These sharks don’t eat people so they are quite a pleasure to look at although I wouldn’t know because I wasn’t close enough to see it before it swam away.


Adi swimming with the fish


Me and Adi


Me swimming with the fish

At the second stop we saw tons of incredible things. Schools of fish in all different colors shapes and sizes. Millions of them. All kinds of colorful coral including these weird purple ‘flaps’ which were stuck to the rock and closed the instant you got close to them like a venus fly trap. Black spiky sea urchins. This fish. That fish. I could almost touch them they swam so close to me. I felt like I was swimming in a giant tropical fish tank. I suppose I was really. One amusing black fish swam up to me on its own and looked me in the eyes. It backed off for a minute then kept swimming up close again for a better look at me. I wondered what it was thinking as it seemed to be examining me. I moved my hand towards it but not surprisingly it quickly disappeared.


Our boat


You don't even need goggles to see the fish in these waters

Palm trees, blue skies, blazing sun and crystal clear water. It was absolute heaven. At the third stop we ate lunch and then continued to snorkel. It was just as incredible as the second stop with plenty of rocky underwater mounds to explore. I saw small brightly colored fuzzy things that shot inside the rocks when I touched them. Oh, I wish I had an underwater camera. I felt like I was in another world. For the last part of the trip we headed to another small island which is just south of the main island. We had to pay an entry fee to get in because it was a private resort but it was well worth it. We climbed to the peak for an amazing view of Koh Tao then drank pina coladas back at the bar followed by more snorkeling. The fish were swimming so close and there was so many of them everywhere. A few of them even bit us. They must have thought we were there to be eaten. My back of course is burnt.


Our last stop, the private island


The water was beautiful

After the trip, back at our quiet resort, Addi and I took a leisurely stroll along the sparsely populated beach which reminded us yet again that we were on a very small island during the quiet rainy season of Thailand. We walked to the most expensive resort where we stopped for a cocktail. It was only 5 o’clock in the afternoon and Addi and I were the only ones in the bar. I taught him how to play backgammon and after the first game, he won. Twice! As tempted as I was to order another mojito, we decided to move onwards in search of a cheaper place to drink. We walked down the stairs leading back to the beach when all of a sudden I heard someone shout out my name. It was an English accent, from the North. It wasn’t Ali. I presume she was still swimming with sharks in the sea. I turned my head and looked up to see a guy leaning over the luxurious pool edge with an utterly shocked look on his face. My jaw equally began to drop once I recognized the familiar face. It was Simon, my friend from Newcastle. We used to work together about 5 years ago and have only seen each other a few times every Christmas and New Year when I used to fly from Chicago to visit my family. We both couldn’t believe our eyes. We were both a million miles from home and randomly happened to be on the same remote island at the exact same time. Unbelievable. After the initial shock wore off we briefly caught up on each others lives and then arranged to meet up for a few drinks after dinner. Simon was on a month-long vacation with various other like-minded travelers who are all part of the same organized trip. Simon’s traveling companions consisted of all women and no men. Apparently there’s a severe lack of male travelers in the UK but Simon didn’t seem to mind. I introduced Ali and Addi to Simon and his girl posse when we met up later that evening and started what was to be a long night of cocktails by the beach, besotted swims in the sea at midnight (fully clothed, during a storm I might add) and dancing on the beach in the rain. Thanks to the super-strength Thai Red Bull, I returned home at approximately 6 o’clock in the morning. And I was still wide awake.


Me and simon just after dancing in the sea

Another Day at the Beach

We kayaked to the next beach

Showered. Kayaked. Sunbathed. Burnt. Showered again. Had a massage. Napped on a hammock. Took another shower because she used this horrible coconut massage oil which made me smell funny. Drank cocktails at the bar. Watched the sun set. Watched the start of a storm. Showered (yes again) then fell a sleep watching the geckos feast on insects on our balcony.

Luang Prabang

Monks leaving a temple

After breakfast in one of the French colonial buildings on the main street we headed to one of the many temples in Luang Prabang. Me and Ali were joined by James (who we met on the boat on the way here) and Steve & Pyper (from jungle trekking in Chiang Mai who we also happened to meet on the boat). It was nice to be with a larger group for a change and we all got on really well. James is from Coventry and Steve and Pyper are from London. As usual, Ali went missing within 10 minutes of us entering the monastery. I later found her standing in front a small shed talking to a couple of monks. She was asking them all kinds of questions until I dragged her away so that we could start the long climb up to the top of the hill. A set of stairs lead us up to a viewing balcony which offered great views of the town and beyond. We walked even further up the hill until we had climbed to the very top where there was a another place of worship. The views of Luang Prabang were even more incredible from this height and we could see how the town has nestled itself between two large rivers.

Tall palm trees lined the road leading to the former royal residence which is now a museum. We wandered around the grounds of the palace and visited yet another temple. As we walked along the road, coconuts kept falling from the trees and children that were close by quickly ran over to claim them. After more aimless walking we stumbled upon a night market. As usual the people sold the exact same things. The same patterned fabric, t-shirts, lamps, cushion covers and hand carved chess sets were on display. I promised that if I saw someone selling something different I would truly reward their initiative by purchasing that item. Even though I wasn't shopping it was still nice to wander around.


The royal temple


A random picture of a junction which I quite liked

Along the Mekong

One of the locals pushing our boat out

Ali is eating her tuna baguette and the Lao boy in front of us is feasting on a handful of sticky rice and scraps of meat. Today is the last day of our 2-day boat trip from the Thai border to Luang Prabang in Laos. Like yesterday, we have been traveling along the majestic Mekong river for most of the day. The scenery hasn't changed much but I'm still not bored of it yet. At both sides of the wide muddy Mekong there are small mountains coated in lush green palms and trees. Misty clouds roll in between the peaks which is a constant reminder of how high we are. Occasionally we stop by a riverside village to pick up or drop-off a passenger which offers a glimpse of local life. Young dark skinned girls carry babies and hurry down the muddy banks with all the other kids in the village to watch our boat pull in. Our boat is extremely long, narrow with squared off ends and has a roof which provides us with protection against the rain (of which there is a lot of). Parts of the mountains look like they have been shaved by clippers where there is only grass instead of dense jungle. The trees hang over the water with twining vines draped over them. Our seats are wooden planks. And they hurt. The murky brown water sporadically swirls and seems to be flowing in all directions as waves collide. One moment the surface is rippled then the next it's smooth and mirror-like. My bum is seriously numb.


One of the villages we stopped off at


The view just before we reached Luang Prabang

Chiang Mai - Jungle Trekking

The jungle we walked through

Stopping to wipe the sweat from my eyes, I remembered for a brief moment how I used to spend my weekends in Chicago. Brunch with friends at the diner. Shopping on Michigan Avenue. A visit to the art Institute. Or even a stroll through Lincoln Park. I had just reminded myself that this weekend was far from ordinary. We had walked deep into the jungle and I was soaked to the bone. My arms glistened with perspiration. I had mud on my face and from a distance it looked like I was wearing camouflage stockings. It would become obvious however, with closer inspection, that I was in fact covered in large patches of mud and foliage. I was far from caring. I was way too busy admiring the interesting situation ahead of us. The small muddy trail we had been so cautiously following had now come to an end. It continued on the other side of a river which seemed impossible to cross. Our guide Mr. 'T' told us that normally it's possible to walk across it quite easily by stepping on the stones but it had rained so much over the past few days that the river was now dangerously deep and flowing fast. I pulled at a large bamboo tree that had fallen implying to Mr. 'T' that maybe we could use it as a bridge but when I looked back, he was already waist-deep in the water helping others wade through. I reluctantly followed realizing we had no other choice. All 13 people in our group managed to cross safely except for the Italian girl... She was tall and thin like a giant stick insect and seemed to approach the challenge with confidence. Her long strides and swift movements soon ended in misery. She seriously underestimated the power of the water as it swept her lean legs away from beneath her. She started floating on her back down the river desperately waving and splashing her arms around until Mr. 'T' finally caught her in his arms. Once the girl got out of the water she was okay but a little shaken to say the least. I curiously watched the Italian remove all her wet clothes except for a black bikini and covered herself with a bright orange poncho. Not exactly the most suitable attire for a trek through the jungle but apparently she was comfortable.


Surprisingly I made it across without any problems

This adventure was even better than I hoped it would be. The trekking was difficult but extremely rewarding. We trekked up and down through rain drenched palm plants, tropical foliage and huge trees with hanging twines and twisted vines. Bamboo trees mysteriously bent almost back into the ground with their not so heavy laden of leaves where as others shot high up towards the sky growing in all kinds of strange directions. It was all too much to take in. It was perfect!


The group making their way through the jungle

On Friday we started our trip with a 7 kilometer hike through the jungle to a camp 1300 Ft above sea level where we slept our first night. We were quite literally in the clouds. You could see the mist floating through an opening in the roof of our sleeping hut. It rained constantly that night and never stopped for most of the following two days. We trekked even further on Saturday and after several more wet river crossings I was well adjusted to life in the jungle and even started to entertain such ideas as swinging on twines like Tarzan and taking mud slide short cuts down the hill side. It wasn't long however before my attention was shifted to wildlife. Jambo (our 2nd guide) tugged my arm and put his finger to his mouth. "Shhh" he said and motioned for me to follow him quietly back to a tree. He pointed to a hole and told me to take a look. I bent over his arm which kept me back and peeked inside. To my surprise I saw two poisonous snakes curled up within. I couldn't believe it. No one else in the group saw them because they were all up ahead. Mr 'T' lead the way and Jambo stayed behind the last person so that nobody could go missing. I liked being either the first or last person so that I could ask the guide questions as and when I liked. From that point on I was much more alert and sensitive as to what might be slithering towards me in the bushes below or curling around branches on the trees above. I wondered what reptile or animal I might see next. Jambo shared my enthusiasm for wildlife but in a much different way. He enjoyed using his sling shot to kill birds and found great pleasure in torturing insects. He was a strange character to say the least and liked to sing the occasional verse of a Thai pop song repeatedly again and again or make animal sounds with leaves. I would often ask him a question just to make him stop.


The group anticipating what might be our next challenge


Me and Ali on the second day of the trip


On Sunday, the third and final day, we were disappointed to hear that white water rafting had been canceled due to the dangerously high water levels. Like I said, it had rained constantly for two days and the river was fierce. I was upset at first but quickly got over it once I saw our next big experience walk by. It was huge. Surprisingly larger than I had even imagined. An elephant!!! I spent some quality time with it after breakfast and watched the others walk around the camp. I examined it's whole body with my eyes and couldn't stop. I touched it's skin and it was so thick and coarse. It looked like creased paper the way it folded and moved. It's trunk amazed me the most. I couldn't take my eyes of it. It was as if it had a mind of it's own the way it's long ribbed trunk moved and twisted in all directions as it sniffed me up and down. I stared into it's eyes and wondered what it was thinking.


Me and the big one

I did exactly as the instructor told me to. I stood on it's head and sat in the chair on top of the elephant. I don't even think it felt the weight of me. Ali and I looked down at the ground which was about 2 meters below us (and we had the smallest of the 7) and then at the guide who was pulling at the elephant's ear to make it walk. We started moving away from the camp towards the jungle in a painfully slow fashion. I wondered what was taking it so long but then I realised he weighs about 570 stones! I was upset that we didn't get one of the other elephants that were bigger but was happy nonetheless. I think our elephant knew what I was thinking because it kept lifting it's trunk and blowing dirt all over us. All the other people in the group found this very amusing and commented on how 'baby like' our mammal was. Apparently, our elephant had only been in school for 1 year and was much younger than all the others. We had an hour with the elephants before making our way on foot to the next camp where we had lunch. After a group photo we piled onto the truck and returned to the city just in time for a very long hot shower at our hotel. I'm curious as to how clean our clothes will be when we get them back from the cleaners. I have a feeling I may need to go shopping again in Bangkok.


They posed for this one

Bangkok - Resistance is Futile

A parked tuk tuk outside our hotel

My eyes watered at the streets littered with opportunities to spend money. Money that I don't have! The inevitable situation is now nearing and I'm feverishly trying to limit what I spend so that I have enough money to help me find my feet in Australia. We wandered around the central shopping district today and I was startled by the sight of huge western-style shopping malls and Starbuck's alike. Bangkok even has a few Boots stores (UK drug store) scattered here and there which Ali was more than happy to explore. I found myself desperately trying to restrain from indulging at every turn. Memories of a similar situation from Hong Kong came flooding back to me. It's days like today when I realise this 'Big Adventure' of mine is more about self-deprivation than anything else at times. I'm not ashamed of this and will openly admit that I like luxury and all things material. Ali spent half the day in the IT Center, a huge 5-floor mall dedicated to electronics and dodgy DVD's. After about an hour the initial interest and intrigue wore off and I realised that every floor had the same shops selling the same stuff. So I continued to follow Ali around like an unenthusiastic child does with his mother in the Marks & Spencer's hosiery department. Ali was checking out camera prices so that she could eventually replace the stolen one. The tides turned however in the second half of the day when Ali followed me around every single department store in the area searching for Kiehl's shaving foam. I'm running dangerously low and nothing else will substitute. Unfortunately Kiehl's doesn't seem to have much presence in Southeast Asia.

Just before nightfall we arrived at the Suan Lum Night Bazaar, a staggering complex of markets. This area was so big that we got lost several times and had to check the area map. You can buy everything from crafts, clothing, furnishings and antiques. There's even a beer garden which must be the largest of it's kind in the world although I'm not quite sure if 'Garden' is the right word to describe it. 'Beer Hanger' would be more appropriate I think. We spent over three hours walking around touching and feeling everything that looked appealing until we realised we had only seen about one fifth of the market and instantly lost motivation to carry on!!!

We negotiated 150 Baht with the tuk tuk driver and jumped in. He accelerated at such a speed I thought we were about to die. The three-wheeled vehicle raced off with an almighty screech and almost tipped over as the driver turned onto the main road. Ali and I looked at each other in shock and laughed out loud. We anticipated an interesting journey back home.

Arrival in Bangkok

The busy Khao San Road in Bangkok

10:30pm. After the longest, and roughest, journey from Siem Reap to Bangkok I was exhausted but after a short walk to our hotel and a quick shower I was eager to venture out and explore the feast of entertainment venues that I had witnessed upon my arrival. In the heart of Banglampoo our hotel is on Rambutri Sawasdeem, a road dedicated to budget travelers and offers all the usual must-have services; cheap guest houses, restaurants, book stores and of course, bars but with the special addition of VW cocktail vans! These retro vans have been converted into bars and offer cheap drinks to anyone who happens to be walking by. It was a short walk to the highly acclaimed Khao San Road where we discovered hundreds more food vendors, bars, t-shirt stalls, restaurants and even massage parlors. The atmosphere reminded me of an 18/30's holiday in Magaluff (sex, fun, alcohol...) except it was created by an unusual mix of visitors - trendy besotted Brits met with backpackers from all around the world and the occasional family looking out of place here and there. We walked a little further before finally giving in to our tiredness.

Hanoi

We arrived in Hanoi at 4:30am. The streets were already full of people trying to offer us taxis and motorbike rides so it wasn't long before we found our guest house. Ali was relieved to discover that we had a western style toilet. Both the guest house and our double room is pleasant and quite cosy. It's the same hotel that Ali's brother Stuart will be staying in. He decided a while ago that he was going to take a three week holiday in Vietnam to be with Ali. This worked out great for Ali because she needed urgent supplies from back home. We found a nice restaurant for brunch called 'Paradise'. I had the best beef burger. I hadn't felt this full in quite a while. The coffee afterwards in the local cafe was equally as good. I bought a fake lonely planet guide to Vietnam for 3 pounds. Although some of the pages are joined at one end not perfectly legible, it's better than paying 14 pounds for a real one. I do feel bad that we are supporting such a harmful industry but we are travelers on a budget and it's all about survival. I do admit that was a poor justification. But anyway, with my new guide I was able to orientate us towards the old quarter by Hoan Kiem, a small lake in the center of the city. There are so many shops selling art and beautifully crafted objects. Lacquered items seem to be popular here but I couldn't help but buy some more art. We found a great bar to meet Stuart called 'Pinky Moony'. It had balconies which overlooked the street below and looked like the perfect location to sit and chat. We photocopied the map from my guide book with instructions on how to reach the bar. We made the receptionist at the guest house hand the message to Stuart as we sneaked back out (we didn't want to meet Stuart at the hotel - it wasn't interesting or creative enough).

Back in the old quarter we discovered art shops where painters were painting replicas of famous works. I thought they were amazing. I was very impressed. If I hadn't witnessed them actually applying paint to a canvas I would have been convinced that a machine did them. They were so precise and acurate. Each stroke was perfect. I considered buying Mum a Van Gogh for her new summer house but then decided against it at the last minute. We took a motorbike taxi back to the hotel so that we could rest and refresh ourselves before heading out to meet Stuart at the bar. I anticipated a long night catching up.

Buffalos and Butterflies

Boy riding a buffalo in the mountains

I stood on the balcony, wiped the sleep from my eyes and watched the clouds roll in through the valley below me. I slept well last night because it was so peaceful and quiet. We ate a quick breakfast which consisted of bananas, bread and a few wedges of Laughing Cow before making our way down to the lobby. A group of us from the hotel, including the Israeli family, hired a Jeep for the morning. We though it would be a nice idea to drive down into the valley and then hike around some of the settlements below. The Jeep was the perfect means of transport considering the roads were in terrible condition. At one point (on a cliff edge) there was no road! The Jeep took us half way down into the valley where we started walking. The views of the mountains and rice terraces were incredible. There were butterflies everywhere. One even landed on Ohmei's face. The kids enjoyed picking them up when their wings were closed. Ohmei kept handing them to me as gifts. I looked around and tried to imagine life in the mountains. I was impressed with the irrigation system that they used on the rice fields. Bamboo shoots are cut in half and used to flow water from one layer to another. The residents even managed to make a generator for electricity from the natural flow of water down the mountain. A small wire rose up from the contraption and was routed for miles to a small wooden house in the distance. I also got see rice being polished and bagged for shipping. I watched boys ride around on buffalos and little girls carry babies on their backs. It was such an eye-opening experience to see how these people live their lives. Although they have a very hard life and are seriously underprivileged the people here seem to be happy and content. The driver of the Jeep met us at the other side of the valley and took us back up into town. We then walked for an hour or so down another mountain to the river below. It had been decided that we were to go swimming. Ali pushed me in first and I almost froze upon entering the water. Just as I was about to curse her in front of the children I became aware of the really quite strong current. At first I joked and made it look like I was being dragged by the current, but then seconds later it was no joke. I couldn't stop myself. I just kept sailing away and couldn't fight the force of the water. It dragged me further towards the waterfall until finally my body was stopped by a large rock behind me. After that, we established a safer place to swim and then stayed there.

I ate alone at a restaurant called Little Sapa. I ordered Vietnamese spring rolls in rice paper with pork and vegetables followed by sweet and sour pork with rice. Both were excellent. Back at the hotel I played with the kids on the balcony. They were climbing all over me like a frame. I tried to tell them that I needed to go shower but they wouldn't let me go. I was determined to keep some of my energy for the 13 hour train ride we were about to endure.

Good Mornin' Vietnam!

Rice terraces in Sapa

I woke up and the coach was swaying violently from left to right as it sped around the winding roads. I looked outside and saw the beginning of a different type of landscape. It looked almost but not quite tropical. Lots of rugged palm plants that all of a sudden were starting to remind me of the images I had in my head of Vietnam. I was excited about visiting a new country but realised that it will be strange having to learn new phrases in a different language and adjust to a whole new currency. After 7 weeks in China I was quite comfortable and accustomed to their environment. I am curious as to how different Vietnam will be. I suppose I was starting to loose enthusiasm having traveled in the same country for so long. I have met many people who say that they love China so much that they could spend months there because there is so much to see. There is lots to see, but I definitely feel like I'm ready for a change of environment. We met an Israeli family at the unfriendly border crossing in He Kou. They too are traveling for one year. I asked the mother how the kids were dealing with the traveling and she said that it has been the most amazing experience for them. The two boys are 4 and 6 years old. I thought the parents were crazy at first but now I admire them. There is not many families who can say that they have spent 24/7 with there children for this long of a period. They have bonded so well as a result.

We all took a small bus together through the mountains to Sapa which is a small town just south of the border. The feeling of adventure was starting fill up inside me again. I hadn't felt like this for a while. When we had arrived at our destination my first observation was how friendly and polite everyone was. The people looked so happy and there were big smiling faces everywhere I looked. After playing with the Israeli kids on the balcony in our hotel, I left in search of food. Ali didn't participate as she wasn't feeling too good so I found a restaurant and ordered breakfast alone. The Israeli family walked by and saw me sitting by myself. They asked if it was okay to join me. The kids looked happy to see me and proceeded to show me their toys. I occasionally looked out to watch the people pass by on the street. There are many minority groups here in Sapa but the most predominant is the H'mong. They are everywhere trying to sell hand crafted cushion covers and bracelets. They wear indigo-dyed linen skirts and aprons with wrap-on leggings and a cylindrical hat. They also wear lots of silver jewelry including large earrings and clusters of bracelets. A couple of them came up to the front of the restaurant to try and sell us stuff. We all politely shook our heads and carried on eating.

I was surprised at how many people speak English here but then I guess it's no surprise when you think about the Americans presence during the war. I have finally finished reading the history of Vietnam but think I may need to read it again. There is so much information to take in and understand that it's difficult to retain. Vietnamese money is quite interesting. I just watched a kid hold up a 100,000 dong note in the air towards the sky. The bills are printed onto transparent paper and has see-through parts in it. They don't rip or tear either. Me and my newly inherited Israeli family walked around the market near by. The kids stopped to look at crabs in a bowl. I loved playing with the kids. They also seemed to enjoy my company and it was difficult dividing my attention between the two of them. The eldest was the more dominant and the little one often felt left out and had to work harder to maintain my attention. They're sweet kids and so well behaved.

Later on in the afternoon I discovered a small cafe that was attracting quite a few locals. It was a simple coffee shop as was the process of making it. The girl kept disappearing behind the counter to prepare each order. There was nothing on the counter. No espresso machines. No Coffee making machines or anything of the likes. I wondered what she was doing behind that mysterious counter. Whatever she did, the coffee tasted amazing. It quite possibly was the best cup of coffee I have ever had. It was very thick and strong, mixed with sweet condensed milk. There was no need for sugar. I asked where I could buy the coffee and a man told me that I could find it easily in Hanoi and he gave me the name of it. I finished my coffee and continued to wander. I met a nice little old lady who tried to sell me silver bracelets and some opium. I said "not today, thank you" and walked away.

Lijiang to Dali

Naxi women walking through the old town of Lijiang

Wandered around the streets of Lijiang again. I bought a t-shirt and some books about Naxi pictographs and Dongba sayings. Naxi is the minority group that populates most of the Lijiang region. Dongba was their religion; a mix of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. The Naxi are famous for the creation of their own written language more than 1,000 years ago, using a combination of symbols and pictographs. It fascinated me and so I wanted to learn more about it. The dress of the Naxi is distinctive and most of the women continue to wear blue blouses and trousers covered by blue or black aprons. I learnt that the traditional T-shaped cape worn by the women has a dual function: it not only prevents chafing from the basket which is always worn on the back, but it also has symbolic meaning.

Mama arranges our bus back to Dali. She gives us each a necklace as a gift. We had our photo taken with her. We arrived at a guest house in Dali hoping that the swimming pool might be filled (unlike the last time when we wanted to stay here and they told us it would take a few days to fill). It wasn't even half full. Apparently the pool fills up naturally with fresh spring water. Not quite sure how that works but we end up staying anyway. I tried a Tibetan butter tea. It tasted awful. I have been reading this book about Shangri-La and the author is always drinking one so I thought I would give it a go. It tasted more like a sour butter soup.

Lijiang - Day II

Breakfast this morning was another unusual feast from 'Mama' (the owner) which included slices of flat bread, a fried egg and slices of tomato covered in sugar. As I attempted to eat the fried egg using my chopsticks I wondered if the Chinese ever question the effectiveness of their invention. I started thinking about all the unusual breakfasts that we've had so far. Olgar's fried cakey-omletty thing in Russia, the donut twists in Mongolia and the toast with shredded cabbage and teriyaki sauce in Japan.

Lijiang - Day I

This morning we endured 3 hours squashed on a small bus that took us to Lijiang, another old town in Yunnan. Lijiang is very much like Dali; a maze of cobbled streets and ancient architecture that takes you back almost 800 years. This town is listed as a world cultural heritage site. One interesting feature of this small town is the Jade River which winds its way through in a number of small streams. There are hundreds of small bridges that cross them. Even though this place is swarming with tourists and the shops sell the same old 'touristy' things, Lijiang is charming and a great place to relax. No cars. No bikes. And no pollution! We found the guest house that was recommended to us by a friend in Dali and then started exploring. At dinner, 'Mama' (the guest house owner) cooked some pretty good food for everyone and we all ate outdoors in the garden. I enjoyed sharing stories with the other travelers before having an early night.

Dali - Day III

The mosquito coils that I bought at the market yesterday seem to be working. I don't think I was bitten at all but Ali was sick all through the night and stayed in bed this morning. I bought her a snickers bar and a bottle of water then continued in search of breakfast. Today was miserable and gray. Later in the afternoon we watched Frieda at one of the nearby cosy cafes before having an early night.

Dali - Day II

We strolled through the markets of Dali just outside the old city wall. I saw everything from baskets being weaved to dentistry being performed on the side of the dirt road. One woman was getting a new tooth attached with some wire. At an antique store we met a Tibetan woman called Wang Li dressed in an orange saffron robe. She was telling us how to bargain for items and not to accept the asking price. We took a boat trip on the lake and visited a few villages on the other side. Ali broke some of the lady's merchandise as she dropped a couple of jade bracelets. They smashed into a million pieces. Of course the woman asked a small fortune for them. Back in the old town, Ali and I decided to take advantage of the cheap massages on offer. We both paid 2 pounds for 40 minutes of excruciating pain. Although I did feel better afterwards.

Dali - Day I

Ali ordered the watermelon juice and I tried Yunnan coffee for the first time. Last night I was eaten alive. I woke up during the night to the sound of mosquito's buzzing around me. This brutal attack lasted throughout the whole night. Ali of course slept right through. It seems the insects don't like her. I'm honored. This morning I counted sixteen bites, they must have had a field day. Our "American Breakfast" wasn't so American but it tasted good none-the-less. Today was mostly spent wandering around the small streets of Dali trying to resist the local art and craft shops. I didn't do very well. I bought 4 pieces of batik art, some embroidered trousers and some local photography.

Kunming to Dali

Breakfast was delicious. I was in heaven. We ate at the adjacent hotel's restaurant where there was a buffet style breakfast. I tried not to make a pig out of myself but failed miserably. I even stole a few bananas and cookies for the train ride. A lady on the train offered us what looked like wrapped sweets but were actually small fruits. They were very chewy and fruity with a sour after-taste. After 7 hours of awkward smiles and stares and unsuccessful conversation, we arrived in Xinjuan. From here we took bus number '8' to the old town of Dali. The views as we approached the old walled city were beautiful. A backdrop of mountains rose up into the clouds in the not so far distance. I like Dali. I think it will be a great place to relax for a few days. Our hotel room was less than a pound, food was cheap and we had no set itinerary for the next few days! We did nothing but meander around the quaint old cobbled streets which are bursting with laid back cafes, guest houses, bars, craft shops and boutiques.

Kunming

My back hurts from sleeping so much. There's nothing else to do on a 25 hour train journey except read. The views out of the window were quite interesting. Paddy fields existed anywhere that was physically possible. It looked like rocks had fallen from the sky. Their determination to farm on such hostile land was admirable. I guess they just have to make the most of what they have.

I arrived in Kunming and and my first impressions where quite unexpected. The city was clean, orderly and not polluted! This I liked, but what upset me was the fact that the city has two train stations. The map that I had drawn to help me get to the hostel was from a train station. Which one? I was lost. I needed help. A boy walked up to me and tried to sell me fake watches. I said "no" for the 4th time and then decided to ask for his help. I was shocked at his response. He said "f**k your mother" with a big smile on his face. I couldn't quite believe what he had said and so I asked him to repeat. "F**k you father" he said. I was outraged. He showed no remorse. I wondered if he actually knew what he was saying. I responded wisely and told him that he really shouldn't be saying things like that. "F**k you mother" he repeated again. I walked away from him and eventually found the hostel I was looking for. I confirmed Ali's arrival at reception and then met her shortly after. We talked about our experiences before having dinner with the missionaries. It was a very interesting evening to say the least.

Train to Kunming

I had just enough time to pick up some dumplings and coconut juice. This coconut juice was different. It had hundreds of nuts floating around in the bottom. I tried not to suck them up with the straw but it was impossible not to get a mouthful every time. I boarded the train for Kunming and settled into my 3rd level bunk.

Return to Chaos

People shouting, staring, pushing, shoving, spitting and complete chaos...It all started coming back to me as I entered the ticket office. I kept thinking back to the days when I purchased tickets in Japan. Such fond memories of civil behavior and efficiency beyond expectations. A massive contrast to where I am now. The woman threw my tickets and change at me. I didn't bother saying thank you. Such manners aren't necessary or welcomed here. I had been in China for 1 hour and 34 minutes and was already missing Hong Kong. Not for its shopping malls, skyscrapers,neon signs or even the expensive lyhee cocktails. I just miss civilized behavior. Maybe I just need another hour or so to re-adjust.

Hong Kong - Repulse Bay

The historic Duk Ling Junk sailing across Victoria Harbor

This morning I was successful in my second attempt to visit the small village of Stanley on the south side of Hong Kong Island. This time I boarded the right bus number 6! I wandered around the market, strolled along the beach and perused around the village before heading to the next place on my itinerary (I was on a mission to see as much as I could and desperately trying to make up for yesterday's disastrous attempts of sightseeing). It wasn't long before I arrived at Repulse Bay - a crescent-shaped strand of sand which is one of the most beautiful beaches in Hong Kong (according to the guide book). The first thing I did was swim in the brisk South China Sea. The second thing I did was stroll over to the Longevity Bridge at a near by temple on the beach. The bridge is supposed to add 3 days to your life each time you walk over it. I planned to walk over it 20 times which would be a remarkable extra 60 days for me to live!! I got bored after the 4th crossing (and realised I looked stupid). My itinerary also permitted me to sun bathe and allowed for 2 hours of chill out time. Life on the beach was great but very short-lived. It started raining as soon as I had finished rubbing in the factor 20. I got the next bus back to Central after lunch. After a brief wander around the city again I took the ferry back across Vicoria Harbor in hope that I would be just in time to see the Duk Ling Junk. Hundreds of these sailing boats used to crowd the waters around Hong Kong but now only one exists. It's free to go on but only operates on Thursday's and Saturday's. I couldn't get tickets for today as they had all been taken but it wasn't long before I realised that it was a blessing in disguise. I wanted a picture of the boat sailing with a view of the skyline behind it and this wouldn't be possible if I was on it. So, just as I had hoped, the historic junk sailed right past our ferry. The weather was horrid, grey and stormy, but it actually made for an interesting shot. I was happy with the results.

I went to the movie theatre (AGAIN!!!) on Kowloon side to see Mr & Mrs Smith. I wandered around Tsim Sha Tsui at night for the last time including the Peninsula where I watched the well-heeled mingle. When I found myself in the bar looking at price lists I decided it was time to call it a day and heading back to the hostel. The kung foo training hostel that is. I was quietly packing my bags until I heard all kinds of aggressive noises coming from the main room. I investigated. About 20 guys were doing interesting arm movements on each other and making loud noises. I asked another guest what they were doing. Apparently, the owner of this hostel (which really is also a martial arts training school) is very good friends with Bruce Lee and there are pictures of them all over the walls. I got even more tired just from watching them and sent myself to bed.

Hong Kong - Lost

A nice ladie from France took this one

Such a disappointing day. I had thought of a brilliantly marvelous itinerary only to have it flawed by misleading directions and bad weather. It all started when my guide book instructed me to "take bus number 6 from Exchange Square". I did that, and it took me all the way to Aberdeen instead of Stanley - the opposite end of the island. Apparently there are two bus number 6's and I of course had boarded the wrong one! I spent the hours between 9:00am this morning and 3:00pm trying to correct my mistakes one after another. It didn't help when almost every place sounded the same. They all seemed to include either; Wai, Lai, Mei, Chai or Tai. And with other names including the words; Hing, Hung, Tong, Fang, King, and Kok, it wasn't surprising they all started to merge after a few hours of studying them. I finally gave up at around 3:30pm when it started to rain and made my way back to Central via the visa office to pick up my passport. The only satisfying part of the day was when I once again gave in to my cravings and watched another movie. After seeing Star Wars on the big screen I took the Star Ferry back across Victoria Harbor to Kowloon for what seemed like the 100th time. I enjoyed the fresh air and reminded myself of the day's events (or lack of them). I still haven't tried the highly acclaimed dim sum but I did at least get to try a few other local delicacies today including 'dun tat' (sweet egg tart), 'bo lau bao' (pineapple bun) and some delicious noodles with 'won ton' (parcels filled with shrimp). I remain hopeful for tomorrow and have tweaked my newly proposed itinerary to perfection.

Hong Kong - Lantau Island

Tian Tan Buddha sitting gracefully at the top of Muyushan Mountain

I returned to the hostel at 11:00 am this morning. Needless to say, there were more than a few raised eyebrows. As I anticipated last night was a long evening. I ended up staying with my friends at the rather posh 5 star Mandarin Oriental. They kindly advised me that I had missed the last ferry back to Kowloon and recommended I stay with them at their luxury accommodation. I thought for all of 2 seconds and then happily accepted their offer.

I quickly changed clothes and hopped on the next ferry to Lantau island. The island is almost twice the size of Hong Kong Island but has a population of only 25,000. When I arrived I walked straight to the bus stop. A makeshift sign read "Tender exact fare or use octopus". I was a little confused. It wasn't until later when I realised that 'Octopus' is the name of the pre-paid transit card system in Hong Kong. A bus took me directly to Po Lin Monastery in Ngong Ping which is a plateau 500m above sea level in the western part of the island. The monastery was interesting but what really impressed me was Tian Tan Buddha - a 34 meter tall outdoor bronze Buddha which is the largest of it's kind in the world! The whole area around Muyushan mountain (upon which the extremely large Buddha sits) is surrounded by unusual flora, emerald green hills and misty clouds which made the whole experience really eerie. The statue was opened to the public in December 1993 after 10 years of construction. It weighs a staggering 250 tons. I climbed the 268 steps which lead to the top and admired the view from such a height. After a milky tea and a spring roll, a local bus took me all the way back to Hong Kong Island over the Tsing Ma bridge. The bridge, which spans 1377 meters across the Ma Wan Channel, is the second longest bridge in the world (after the Humber Bridge in Britain!) and is an award winning structure. It is listed in the Guiness World Records apparently.

I arrived in Tsuen Wan exhausted and decided to have a lazy evening at the movie theatre. I watched Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy. Never read the book/s but I really enjoyed the film.

Hong Kong - Retail Paradise

One of the many streets in Kowloon covered by neon and signs

This morning I knew exactly where to go for breakfast. First Cup Coffee was the perfect place to sit with a coffee and a ham & cheese toastie. I finished reading the HK Magazine (free local paper) to get some ideas on specific places to visit and help plan an itinerary for the week. I did exactly that. Unfortunately, the first place on the list was the not so interesting Chinese Visa Office in Wan Chai. The next five hours was spent waiting in a queue only to hand over my Chinese visa forms and passport to a woman. She told me I could pick it up in three days time. I need another visa just so that I can get back into the country when I leave Hong Kong and had to pay 40 pounds for it. So, with only half a day left I decided to explore the retail paradise of Hong Kong Island and took a tram ride from Wan Chai to Central. One of the first buildings that caught my attention was the Armani Charter House. I really was in heaven. I walked into the lobby, used the automatic sanitizing hand spray located at the concierge desk and observed my surroundings. Below me was Georgio Armani. Beside me was Georgio Armani, Georgio Armani Cosmetics, Emporio Armani, Armani Libri and Armani Fiori (yes...fiori as in flowers...an Armani flower store!!). Above me was more Emporio Armani and Armani Casa (furniture and the likes) plus several huge screens with catwalk shows and light displays. And of course, just across the street is Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and every other store you could possibly imagine. It was torture. I wanted everything!!!

I continued walking through Central past the palm trees and skyscrapers until I reached a different environment all together. Graham Street Market. Comfortably nestled along the narrow and extremely steep Graham Street was a fresh food market. I was fortunate enough to witness a fish being cut perfectly in half. So perfectly cut that all it's organs were still intact - it was still alive! I could see its heart pumping as it flapped around on the table waiting for someone to buy him. At the top of Graham Street my heart was racing. I had literally climbed up to the mid-levels of the mountains that separate the north from the south of the island. I browsed around a cool shop called Tao Evolution on peel street. They had some great prints by Bill Schwab and Peter Steinhauer of local people in Vietnam and Tibet. I walked back down the hill along Elgin Street only to discover a Man blow torching pigs feet on the sidewalk. I also noticed several Men walking around the streets with their caged birds. One gentleman even had a fitted cover for his bird cage - probably to protect the bird while walking through the city.

It was well past lunch time and I was in search of a restaurant called Cuisine Cuisine for some dim sum (rated the best in HK Magazine in a special top ten article). It was a great excuse to ride the tram again and stepped on board. The tram is a classic icon of Hong Kong and runs along a 13km (10 mile) main line on North Hong Kong Island. It was established about 100 years ago (as the sign above the tram reads) and apparently they are the only double-decker tram fleet operating in the world. They're really efficient and one comes about every 3 minutes. I'm not so impressed with the weather today. It's warm but very cloudy. After dinner at The House of Bento (gave up trying to find Cuisine Cuisine) I headed back to the hostel to get ready for a night out on the town. I went to Rice Bar, another place which was recommended in HK Magazine. It was nice but deadly quiet. Obviously Monday isn't a good night to be going out. I didn't mind and really enjoyed a proper drink in a nice bar and it wasn't long before I was joined by a friendly group of people. I made some friends and stayed with them for the rest of the evening. John made me upgrade to expensive lychee cocktails. I had a feeling tomorrow's itinerary might have to begin a little later than scheduled.

Hong Kong - A Sub-Tropical Metropolis

The metropolis of Hong Kong Island as viewed from Victoria Peak

Urghh! 13 hours on a train.

I couldn't sleep. At one point I was kneeling on the floor with my head resting on the seat. I was inspired after seeing the same position employed by another guy on the train. I arrived at Shenzhen at around 8:00 in the morning. I got off the train and walked out of the station all disoriented as usual. A new city. New streets. And no clue where I was going. It was one of those fortunate occasions where all the hands were pointing in the right direction. It was only a 10 minute walk to the border where I could conveniently get the metro into Hong Kong (after clearing passport control and customs that is). I took the metro to Tsim Sha Tsui and found a suitable hostel before even arriving at the one I intended to stay in. After a much needed shower and change of clothes I wasted no time and immediately hit the streets of Kowloon.

Again, one of those rare occasions when my eyes water with excitement - the Peninsula! Complete with its army of green Rolls-Royce parked outside the grand entrance. I was standing Exactly where James bond was in man with the golden gun. I drank the strongest espresso I've ever had. It blew my head off. I had stumbled upon a great place called First Cup Coffee (12 Hankou Road, Tsim Sha Tsui) which is a small independent cafe. They even told me about how coffee was first discovered. I learnt that it was in Ethiopian highlands when a goat herder noticed its effects on its goats after they had eaten the beans. Tsim Sha Tsui is a tourists ghetto in the southern tip of Kowloon. My hostel is just off Nathan Road which is packed with shops, hotels, bars and restaurants. I walked to the Hong Kong Cultural Center which faces the most incredible views of Hong Kong Island. The building itself is quite unusual considering it has no windows in it at all. I debated over which juice to try; water chestnut with grass jelly or mango sago. I opted for the water chestnut and didn't like it very much. I found it so difficult to resist the shops so I headed to the less tempting Mong Kok goldfish market on Tung Choi Street. Shop after shop had created displays of racks holding hundreds of bags each with a different type of fish swimming around inside. Prices were written directly on the bags with a marker. I was amazed at how big of a market their was for goldfish. Next I headed to the nearby Flower Market followed by the Bird Market, Clothes Market and then finally the Jade Market. I liked how the streets are dedicated/themed to particular merchandise. It must be great being a resident here; if you need flowers, you go to the Flower Market. If you need a bird...

The Bird Garden on Yuen Po Street was quite an experience. There was literally hundreds of square cages stacked up with birds in them. Some bigger, more exotic birds sat in elaborate hanging cages. The sound of them singing and squarking was almost nauseating. Birds are like pets for Chinese people. Their prices reflect the birds' singing ability rather than their appearance. As well as the countless birds on sale there was also accessory stalls that sold beautifully crafted wood and bamboo cages. I couldn't help but feel sorry for the birds locked up in such small cages though. I continued to meander around the streets. It's hard to believe you're in Asia with street names like; Prince Edward Road, Argyle Street, Portland Street, Cameron Road, Austin Road and Salisbury Road. And, almost everyone speaks English!

It wasn't much longer before I was experiencing Kowloon by night. I took the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor to Central on Hong Kong Island. The view of the skyline lit up at night was amazing. The Bank of China building, HSBC, Ritz Carlton and Mandarin Oriental are just a few of the spectacular buildings that line the outskirts of the island. The ferry ride only took 15 minutes and cost about 20 pence. As soon as I arrived in Central I randomly decided to take a double decker open top tour bus to Victoria Peak Tram Station. What I was about to see was definitely a sight to remember and even the tram ride was quite something. I swear we were almost vertical as we ascended up the hill. I was expecting it to be one of those clever hill trams that kept you perfectly horizontal the whole way. The peak tram is pulled by steel cables and climbs a total of 373 meters. It has been operating since 1888. In less than 3 minutes the tram had reached the summit. What was almost amazing as the view of Hong Kong from 1200 feet above sea level was the sight of a coffee shop. I of course indulged in a tall coffee of the day as I continued to admire the view from Victoria Peak. Everything looked so still and quiet. All I could hear was crickets from the bushes and trees below me. What makes the skyline of Hong Kong so much more impressive is the lush green backdrop of the mountains behind. I sat and looked at the free city guide that I picked up in the coffee shop. I considered eating at the Dan Ryan Chicago Grill for obvious reasons but rendered that option too difficult considering its location. On my way back to the hostel I was yet again (for the 20th time) offered a custom made to measure suit for 30 pounds. I milked my legs for the last remaining energy they had in them and walked to Cultural Center to see view again at night.

Our Separate Ways

This morning we arrived at the coach station early to catch our bus to Shangsha. I desperately needed to use the toilets and followed the pointing hands. I ran weaving in and out of the parked coaches until I finally arrived at the nasty looking structure with 'WC' painted on the wall. It was a familiar interior. One big trough in which to anything and everything you needed to do. I could deal with the less than hygienic or comfortable environment. What I did have problems with however, was squatting down along with the other men doing their business too. There were no screens! I just sat and smiled trying not to look. To make things even worse, I didn't have any toilet paper. So... I checked to see what kinds of old receipts I had in my wallet. An ingenious idea I thought. Unfortunately I had no receipts to discard and was forced to do the unthinkable. I selected the lowest denominations of Chinese currency and defaced General Mao in a rather distasteful fashion. I returned to the coach and told Ali about my expensive trip to the bathroom. She laughed for a long as I can remember. Luckily I picked up a couple of bowsers (steamed filled buns) and bananas for breakie. The usual rural sights passed us by as we headed along the bumpy road to Shangsha. Paddy fields, yaks and buffalos with farmers wearing cone hats. Women sold fruit on the side of the road. Others carried baskets like scales over the back of their neck. I read more information about Hong Kong. I'm now more excited than ever.

Once we arrived at Shangsha train station Ali and I arranged our alternative onward travel. Ali got tickets for Guilin and I got tickets for Hong Kong. Well, not directly - I have to take a train to Shenzhen which is close to the border crossing. We will be meeting in Kunming a week from tomorrow at the Camellia Hotel.

A Domestic Day

This morning Ali and I hand washed our clothes on the roof of the youth hostel. The process seemed to last a millennia. Ali announced that she had decided to visit Guilin instead of Hong Kong. It was final. We were to separate for one week and rendez-vous in Kunming. I cut Ali's hair for the second nerve-racking time. She complained it was a little uneven. I reminded her that I wasn't a hair dresser and have intention of being one!

More Rocks, Crags and Gullies

Just a few of the many limestone peaks we encountered while walking along the river

Today's climb was much harder than yesterdays. So many insects. I think it must be my sun lotion. I could hear Ali laughing behind me as I swung my arms around in the air like a mad man. I could hear them all around me. When I reached the top of the first set of steps I was greeted by a woman holding out a ladle full of what looked like wallpaper paste. I thanked her but expressed more interest in what was being fried in her pan. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw that she was selling roasted potatoes at the top of a mountain. And, they were just as tasty as they looked! We climbed further up into the mountains and saw more weird and wonderful insects and eccentric caterpillars. I saw two on the same step and tried to re-position them for a photo. They were very uncooperative.

We ended the hike with one last climb to the top of a temple for an almost birds-eye view of the mountains we had just climbed. I lost Ali in the process so I sat patiently with two devout men at the base of the temple. They tried to communicate with me but failed. One guy was stroking the hair on my legs as if he had never seen such a thing in his life. I amused them by writing in my journal. A butterfly flew onto my notebook just inches away from my face I couldn't believe it. It was so colourful and tame. The air is so fresh and clean here. I wondered what they were saying about me. I wish I could understand Chinese but pretend not to so that I could listen to their honest observations.

We took one of the free coaches which was already filled with Koreans to another part of the national park. They were much quieter than Chinese folk and very civilised. The man sitting next to me offered roasted chestnuts. We climbed Tianzishan (Tianzi Peak). Every rock, crag and gully had been given an elaborate name. It really was quite stunning. From this height it all started to make sense. I could see how the rocks were formed. It's quite simple really. Over thousands and thousands of years the continuous flow of water has eaten away at the rock leaving only sandstone peaks to remain. You forget just how high you are until a wispy cloud rolls in and wraps itself around a few tall narrow peaks.

Once we had satisfied and exhausted ourselves we took a bus back to the village to reclaim our baggage. We had left it all at the park entrance with the security staff. We then boarded another bus which took us all the way to Zhang Jia Jie city and found a hostel in the torrential rain. It was so warm and humid. I was hoping it would cool down after the storm but it never did. I discovered a street vendor at the end of our street. We sat at the small table under a canopy and ate fried food. We selected various items on sticks and waited while the woman placed them into a large vat of frying oil to cook. Items of food we selected included fish, unfamiliar (but good) crunchy slices of a vegetable we hadn't seen before, green beans, tofu, egg, potato and even a banana. And of course, no street food dining in China would be complete without a couple of bottles of Tsing Tao beer to wash it all down with. Ali used the beer caps to help illustrate her proposed itinerary for our remaining 19 days in China. We talked in detail about the possibility of us going our separate ways. Ali was torn. Hong Kong or Guilin?

Climbed Huangshizhai

Feeding the hungry monkeys

1048 meters high. 3878 stone steps. Words can not describe!!! The beauty of this landscape was stunning. Everywhere I looked there was steep rocky peaks. Some of which were so tall and narrow I wondered how they managed stay upright. I could hear the sounds of water trickling and dropping onto lush green leaves around me. This was my first sub-tropical experience so I was excited to see such flora and flora that I hadn't seen before (or at least in it's natural environment). We hiked for hours up the stone stairs to the top of peaks and through dense forests that somehow managed to grow out the steep rock faces. At the very beginning of our hike we saw a few monkeys casually walk past us. Three of them walked right in front of me so I pulled out my packet of banana chips. The monkeys stopped in their tracks as they heard the rustling sound of a packet opening. Ali shrieked "uh oh". Before I knew it the three monkeys were at my feet standing on two legs with their arms stretched out. I pulled out a banana chip and the larger of the three monkeys grabbed it out of my hand. This procedure repeated about 20 times until I realised that the monkeys had ate a third of my food supply. I stopped feeding them and continued on my way. Drips of fresh mountain dew dropped onto my bare skin. The smell. The butterflies. It was all so lush and fresh. Every now and then I would see another monkey swing in the trees in the corner of my eye. I was convinced they were closing in on me for more food. Kept thinking about the film 28 days later. Occasionally we would overtake a few tourists. Most of them were Chinese but we did see the odd westerner once in a while. The Chinese wore the most unsuitable clothes for hiking. I saw one middle aged woman wearing heeled shoes, jeans and a wool jacket. The men looked even funnier. They looked as if they had just left the office wearing shirts, trousers and formal footwear. I mean, what on earth where they thinking? "Darling, do you think these thick tight jeans and heeled white shoes would be ok for hiking 3878 slippery stone steps?".

I noticed I sign that said "Suggestions to the guests: Mother-Son Peak viewing spot is the best place to breathe the air anion reaching over 100 thousand per cubic meter. The germ contained in the air is reduced to zero. Advise you breathe deeply there 15 times". Mmm, okay!


Sub-tropical flora and fauna all around us

We looked up at Golden whip rock - a 350 meter high peak towering above us. I watched Mr Feng Jingbin paint using his palms and fingers with unique craftmanship. I bought one of his paintings. His shop was on Jinbian stream within the national park. He looked at me and started to cut my profile out of a piece of black felt. It was a cross between me and Pinochio. He signed and stamped it before handing the card to me. Once we left the park we were helped by a tour guide. After indicating where we wanted to go (the northern areas in the park to stay the night) she told us to follow her. We ended up taking the coach with her and the entire tour group. We were the only ones not wearing the special white tour caps. I felt left out. She took us back to the main town of Zhang Jia Jie where we had originally started off 2 days ago - Nowhere near where we wanted to be. We stayed the night with the tour group in their hotel and went to bed early. Instant noodles for tea again.

Finally we Arrive at our Destination

Ali picked up our wake up call at 8:30. We never ordered one. The reception just wanted to let us know that if we wanted a tour guide for the day they could arrange one. Ali said thank you very much and put the phone down. No hot water again. Obviously a common policy in the southern parts of China! I sat at the window in our room drinking green tea. It's always interesting waking up in a city not really knowing what it looks like. We arrived during darkness last night so when I looked out of the window everything was unfamiliar. Some large four storey hotel buildings with supermarkets below and a continuous rolling mountain immediately sat behind. It was very foggy. After studying the map and speaking to locals with confused looks on their faces, we realise that Wulingyuan is an area/region not a city. We walked around Zhang Jia Jie and stopped for a while to take a closer look at the stalls selling frogs, snakes, rabbits, turtles and giant rats along with other unidentifiable animal parts. Two shaky rides later in rickety old buses, we arrived at the village which is at the foot of the mountain range. We bargained (a painful process) for a standard room at Minzu Shanzhuang - a thatched, Tujia-run establishment. Our room is quite large and covered in a decorative Tujia-style wood with a balcony. I can't believe we're thinking about hiking mountains again when our legs haven't even recovered from Huangshan. I contemplated visiting Hong Kong on my own for a week. I read about Hong Kong on the bus to village. I'm very excited!!!