Monday, May 23, 2005

Hangzhou Retreat

We had slept for so long. The beds were so comfortable. I even had to call reception to ask if they could extend our check-out time. While Ali took a shower, I ventured out into the dusty delapotated streets of destruction in search of breakfast. I found fried chicken on a stick, our favorite street food. Ali was very happy. She always craves chicken on a stick. We took the local bus to the train station which was packed with people as usual. Why? Why are there always so many people sitting waiting. Some people look like they have been sleeping on the floor for days? You would never see that in Kings Cross. I guess that's just what happens when you have such a big country and everyone travels by train. That's probably why the waiting rooms are more like departure lounges at airports. They're huge! And everyone carries their luggage in large nylon laundry bags tied up with string. They often carry two at a time hanging off the ends of a bamboo stick placed over the back of their neck. I'm not sure where these people go but they pack so much stuff, possibly everything they own. Unless it's merchandise of some sort. Maybe one bag is full of jade ornaments and bracelets, and the other bag contains their clothes. A mobile shop. When business dries up - you move on to another part of the country. Ingenious!

We got on the train bound for Hangzhou and sat down in our seats. The train was already full. I'm not exaggerating when I say that every single person on the train starred at us. I got so mad that I started to wave my hands in everyone's face. It wasn't until I said "ne-how" (in a not so friendly manner) when I realised that I was being totally out of order. These people hadn't done anything wrong. They were just curious and wanted to make friends with us. It's so easy to forget where you are sometimes. I quickly changed my outlook and started to make friends with them. They all started to smile and show even more interest in our presence. I'm starting to understand the Chinese but it's just so difficult at times. They are so uncivilised. I want to like them but for some reason find it difficult to show respect. I know that must sound awful. And it is awful. We have been fortunate enough to meet some extremely generous people like the man on the coach from Xi'an. I was dumbfounded by his friendliness and willingness to help. It would be difficult to find anyone prepared to do the same for a stranger in England. But then there is the rest of the population which you haven't been introduced to. You can only take them for face value. Their face unfortunately isn't a pretty looking one. Spitting, hawking and severe lack of hygiene is just a few of the visuals that I see every single day. I smile at people now - it makes such a difference. At the end of the day, I chose to visit their country - the very least I can do is show them a little respect. I actually ended up playing backgammon with a Chinese guy on the train. I managed to teach him the game and he got the hang of it quite easily.

We arrived at Huangzhou and took bus number K7 into the city. I shouted at a woman pushing Ali out of the way to get a seat as we got off. She looked scared. I tried to communicate to her that if she waited until people got off the bus first, it would be a lot easier to find a nice seat. The Chinese have absolutely no concept of queuing or understand the meaning of being civil. They just push, squeeze and force their way into any situation or environment without regard for other human life. It amazes me. Ok, that's quite enough negativity for one day. I LOVE CHINESE PEOPLE!!!

It was poncho time again! As it started raining, out came the colourful rain macs that covered the cyclists as they rode through the rain. It was a short walk to the hostel from the bus stop. We reached the lake which was beautiful. It looked very peaceful and relaxing. Huangzhou has done a great job of maintaining and beautifying their natural asset. I could see pathways and oriental bridges emerging out of the water with pagodas and monuments scattered everywhere around the lake. Surrounding the city were mountains crowned with temples and small settlements. I had a feeling I would like it here very much. Hangzhou was starting to look like the perfect retreat from the hustle and bustle of big polluted cities.