Japan: Day II - Hot Springs

As we waited for Kaz to pick us up and take us for breakfast Ali and I stood on the balcony which is accessed by the sliding doors in our room. The hot sun was almost blinding but were still able to take a good look around. Rice crops, office buildings, a giant hospital, houses and lots of overhead wires make up the area surrounding the house along with many hills in the distance. Just as we decided to have a game of backgammon, Kaz walked in and saw us standing on the balcony. We quickly packed up and then followed him to the car. Kaz started his engine. Britney immediately started blasting out of the speakers in the car. Three songs later I realised we were listening to her most recent album. He's obviously a fan. Kaz looks so much like Baba and shares many of the same mannerisms. Every time I look at him it feels like I'm with baba. It wasn't long before we arrived at Baba's old house where he spent some of his early childhood before moving to the new house. The house is much smaller than the current one but also has adjoining office space. Both of which are uninhabited. Across the road was a small family owned restaurant where we stopped for breakfast. We met the owner who happens to be a very good friend of Kinko's and enjoyed the most delicious breakfast I have ever had. We didn't get a menu or even asked what we would like. Kaz simply ordered 2 coffees and a tea. In addition to our drinks we were also presented with a plate consisting of two slices of thick toast - one with a fried egg on top and another with cabbage dribbled with a sauce of some kind. To the right of me, I noticed an old man looking at Japanese manga porn. His wife sat opposite reading a newspaper. After breakfast we stopped by the business across the street where we met Mieko Nakano, another friend of the family. Kaz took us back to the house so that we could use the internet to check our email. My Sister Shelley's email stood out the most "PLEASE READ - IMPORTANT NEWS". I was pleased to hear that she was pregnant. I could hardly type as I was that excited. I will again be the proud Uncle of her second child some time around December 18th. I tried to communicate to Kaz the big news but I think he interpreted my miming of being pregnant as "I want to be fat" as I moved my hands around an imaginary big belly. I rushed Ali to get off the internet as Kaz was waiting for us in the car outside.

Kinko joined the three of us for an intriguing trip to the curative hot spring in Toei which is about an hours drive away. I was a little apprehensive about this experience since reading about the springs unique effects. Curative hot springs are very rare in Japan and this one is of a particularly high standard. The main characteristic of these springs is the long duration of it's warming effect. After taking a hot spring, the muriate on your skin prevents evaporation of sweat thus keeping your body extremely hot. Taking into consideration that I'm a hot person naturally, I was a little worried. At the start of our journey we stopped off at a restaurant for noodles. We sat at the regular tables as supposed to the low lying ones with cushions on the floor. I had the same meal as Kaz and copied his every move. When he took a pinch of orange powder and put it in the bowl... I did the same. When he poured soy sauce into the small pot... I did as the legendary cat would do. The outcome was a cup of soy sauce mixed with all the flavorings and spices of your choice. Just the thing for dipping your noodles in before slurping them up. Kaz took numerous photos of me and Ali eating. I think he was impressed with our chopstick skills (or amused by the lack of them - one of the two). I couldn't keep my eyes off Kinko's blue flame hair as it caught the light from our window. A million messy slurps later, we got back into the car and continued driving. Every time I say arigato (thank you in Japanese), Kinko repeats it back to me in a slightly different way. I guess I'm saying it wrong but I'm pretty sure I've said it every way imaginable. She's just never satisfied. I'm finding myself bowing to people all the time. If someone bows to me, I bow to them. Sometimes they bow a second time, so I bow again also. I honestly think I could keep the whole procedure going forever if I felt like it. There is no official end to bowing. Similarly, I learnt that younger people have to show their respect to elders by being the first and last to bow. Old people could have so much fun if they were able enough. They could keep someone bowing for hours.

The scenery was beautiful as we drove up through the mountains. Nothing but dense forest and valleys. Just over an hour later we arrived at the spa which is one of many that line the river. Me and Kaz entered the men's spa while Ali and Kinko went downstairs to the women's spa directly below. Again, not exactly familiar with natural spa procedures, I copy Kaz's every move. Once we had removed all items of clothing he slid open the screens and I couldn't believe what I saw. It was incredible. Two pools - one indoor and one outdoor on a balcony overlooking the mountains. As I soaked in my Birthday suit drinking sake, I started to think about how lucky I was to be having such an amazing experience. Kaz took some photos of me in the pool but I had to do a little editing. Most of them were a little too explicit for my liking. He got a little carried away with himself taking photos left right and center. I listened to the constant flow of water pour into the steamy pool and watched Japanese hawks fly around above me. I remember so vividly the view as I looked out into the valley. Thick lush forest above the shallow river winding below us. It was truly an unforgettable experience.

Afterwards I was so drained of energy all I wanted to do was take a nap. The whole experience was surprisingly tiring considering I did nothing but soak in a tub and drink. Me and Kaz waited for the girls to come out and then continued onwards up the hill by car. Once we had reached the start of what looked like a national park, we started on foot making our way up the mountain. Kinko sat this one out. I think she wanted to sleep in the car. The views were even more breathtaking as we climbed further up through the park. I could see the many layers of mountains in the distance, each one getting slightly lighter in shade just like one of Hokusai's paintings. So many bonsai and maple trees lined the path. Kaz showed us a temple high above which we accessed by long steep steps. This marked the half way point. We hit the gong, bowed to the Buddha and then returned back to the car were we found Kinko fast a sleep. On the way back home, we stopped off for a toilet break at a garden center/food store. Me and Ali walked around the store trying to identify all the different types of food on sale. I made friends with a snake that was trapped in a jar. Kinko bought us all a quick snack which was rice on a stick covered in a black paste. I liked it.

Later in the afternoon, Kaz announced to both of us that he would not be attending dinner tonight and admitted that he has been neglecting his family. I wondered if we would ever see this elusive family of his. Kinko and Tukayuki took us out for dinner at a traditional Japanese style restaurant about 20 minutes drive away. The restaurant was small, cosy and intimate. Opposite the long sushi bar were 3 rooms divided by thin walls. Each consisted of two low standing tables surrounded by cushions. We stepped up onto the raised floor after taking our shoes off first. Unfortunately tonight was one of those rare occasions when I wasn't wearing socks. Of course my feet were clean but I shamefully kept them out of sight none the less. Me and Ali sat opposite Baba's parents on the floor at our table. I kept changing positions almost every 5 minutes. My legs weren't as accustomed to hard wood floors as the Japanese were. Not wasting any time, and without the pleasantries of asking us what we fancied, masses of food arrived at our table. A selection box for each of us contained all kinds of wonderful things: octopus tentacles, fried shrimp, raw fish slices, "vegetables" I've never seen before, and shrimp with its head still attached. In addition to the fishy boxes of goodness, I enjoyed mussels in miso soup and the best slices of steak I have ever had which was fried right in front of me by Kinko. The steak arrived on a plate sliced and raw. The waitress lit the small object on our table which looked more like an incense burner than a cooking device. This enabled the head of the family (Kinko in our case) to fry the meat for as long or as little as the individual desired. Kinko also guarded the large vat of sticky rice by her side. Whenever she saw one of our rice bowls reaching half empty, she quickly grabbed the bowl to refill it. As Kinko was the designated driver, it entitled the rest of us to enjoy a Kirin. I also drank sake in honor of my sisters recent good news.

Back at the house, Kinko and Kaz came into our room and gave us Shinkansen (aka the Bullet) tickets to Tokyo (these aren't cheap!). Once again she insisted that it was a "presento". I almost cried. I wanted to give her the biggest hug.