Friday, May 12, 2006

Isla del Sol


A map of Isla del Sol (North)

Day 1: We started our 3-day trek around Isla del Sol with a 4-hour hike accross rural mainland from Copacabana towards the closest point to reach the island by boat. This part of the trip was rarely visited by other travelers because it is essentially unnecessary. You can access Isla del Sol directly from Copacabana but we thought it would be a nice addition to our trek. We greeted the locals as they passed us by and introduced ourselves to the various animals along the way. The scenery was so beautiful. I couldn't help but wonder whether the locals ever get bored of their peaceful life in such a prestine environment. It's hard to imagine they ever would.

We reached a small pebbled beach where we paid an aged man to row us all the way to the island. I was mortified. It looked like way too much work for an old man like himself. I felt so guilty and even considered offering to take over at one point. It took a good 30 minutes to reach the island and the old man never stopped once to take a breath. Upon reaching the island we clambered off the boat and onto the rocks where we watched in admiration as the bionic old man rowed back to the mainland. We sat for a while admiring the water. It was crystal clear and almost perfectly still. Only the occasional smooth ripple distorted our reflection as we peered into it. I could see the look in Danielle's eyes and I knew exactly what was coming next. "Wouldn't this be the perfect place to skinny dip. I mean, we're totally alone and the water is so beautiful". Despite the fact that the water was absolutely freezing, we all agreed and chose numbers from my hat as to what order we should jump in.

It felt good to be trekking again and I relished the thought of more. It's been a long time since I have actually challenged myself physically and enjoyed every second of it. After an hour of hiking up and over the island we reached a small town where we found the location of our hostel. We had arranged to met Ali here so that we could all be together for at least part of the trip. Due to problems with her knee, Ali took the precautionary measure not to join us on our 3-day trek and took the boat on her own directly from Copacabana instead. In the morning she will return to Copacabana and prepare to make her own way to our next destination. Ali and I will rendezvous in Puno at her chosen hostel once I have finished the trek.

Day 2: We enjoyed breakfast at the hostel with Ali before starting our second day of hiking. My legs where tired from yesterdays trek but it didn't take me long to warm up. I found that once I got started I didn't want to stop. We walked for three hours to the north end of the island where we stopped to explore some Inca ruins. This proved to be a great opportunity to take some group photos using the timer setting. We then headed straight to a small pebbled beach where we ate lunch which consisted of salami and cheese on crackers. We were the only ones populating the beach and could only be seen by the few farmers and numerous donkeys cultivating the surrounding land. Barely 24 hours had passed since our last aquatic affair when Danielle suggested yet again that we should jump in the lake. Clearly Titicaca had a special effect on both of us as I happily followed her into the lake. Danielle jumped out of the water almost as quickly as we had jumped in. I on the otherhand was determined to stay submerged longer and keep warm by swimming. I lasted about 3 minutes before I had to get out. It was refreshing to say the least.


Man from Del Monte explores the Inca ruins

We continued onwards towards the next town and passed many small villages and farms on the way. The higher parts of the island offered 360 degree views of the lake which was a constant majestic bright blue. The land on the island is mostly cultivated which accounts for why the hills are striped with steps. We passed many locals as they walked between villages on the island. Most of them were quite young and carried a baby wrapped up in a sheet hung off their back. They were usually accompanied by mules that carried large sacks of vegetables or bound parcels of hay. Llamas, alpacas, sheep, pigs...constantly crossed our path as we traversed the undulating plains. We finished the day´s trek with a small but excruciatingly steep 20-minute incline followed by a very pleasant 30-minute walk back down to lake-level to a small town where we stayed the night. The sun was still quite high when we arrived at our hostel which is what prompted me to think of a fun activity to entertain ourselves until nightfall. I looked out of our bedroom window and realised the search was over. A rowing boat! Me, Danielle and Jason rented a rowing boat and enjoyed a relaxing row out on Lake Titicaca. Well, it would have been relaxing if I wasn't tricked into having to row the bloody thing. Apparently I was the best one for the job and every time either one of them attempted to row they were absolutely shocking. We went around in circles. Obviously they did it on purpose to inflate my ego and help encourage me to row for the whole time we were out. For the second time in two days we watched the moon rise over the lake which was an incredible sight. Jason was surprised by the fact that I have seldom watched a moon rise in my life. I couldn't explain why in England we are denied such beauty.

Day 3: Again, the first 20 minutes were the hardest but once I got warmed up it was fine. I can't tell you how good it felt to be excercising again after so many months of inactivity. The altitude makes inclines even harder but the views are well worth the effort. We walked along rocky paths cut into the hillside that followed the lakeshore. We walked along beaches. Through villages. Up hills. Down streams. Today was my favorite day out of the whole trek. The sun was extremely hot but my Del Monti hat offered great protection. We finally reached the Inca fountain which was close to where we originally stepped foot on the island off the row boat except this part wasn't so peacful or prestine. Upon arrival we were met with hundreds of smartly dressed tourists who had just arrived off their large luxurious cruise ships. The second they stepped off the boat they were swarmed by local kids trying to sell all kinds of tacky souvenirs. Even pictures with themselves! Their parents sold the usual stuff which lined the pathways leading to the sacred fountain (llama wool jumpers, hats, scarfs, gloves and socks). The four of us waited an hour for the next boat departure back to Copacabana.

We celebrated our last night together with dinner and muchas copas de vino. Surprisingly, I ate quite possibly the best fillet mignon I have ever had. As usual Danielle was an evil influence and didn't take long before we both decided to move off the wine and on to White Russians. They were lethal!


The incredible Cordilleras Real behind Lake Titicaca


One of the many gorgeous views from the island


Nothing but tranquil


Replica of an ancient boat made of reeds for tourists