and the incredible journey along a legendary trail
The sanctuary of Machu Picchu
The Briefing
Before today we visited several Inca ruins around Cusco while our enthusiasm was still fresh. I anticipated that such viewing post-Machu Picchu probably wouldn't be as impressive. At 6:30pm I met Ali, Sasha and Stuart in the tour office along with the rest of the group for a briefing with the staff. There are 12 of us in total including the 2 guides. Our group consists of Ali & I, Sasha & Staurt, Tracy & Dave (UK), Sheila & Andy (UK) and Judith & Chuck (US). Jimmy was the main guide who led the briefing. Herbert was a trainee guide and assisted Jimmy throughout the presentation. The briefing was an opportunity to meet with the group before our departure and provided us with a good understanding of what to expect. Jimmy outlined the itinerary for the following 4 days and reassuringly answered all our questions. Tomorrow our group will be just 12 out of the 500 other tourists walking the exact same Inca Trail. The four day journey on foot from the Urubamba valley up through the Andes mountain range will be demanding but extremely rewarding. Like most of the people in our group we paid a little extra to have porters carry the majority of our gear plus sleeping bags and mats. With just a few other last minute purchases to be made at the farmacy next door, it seemed we were briefed, equiped and set for an early departure the following morning.
Day One
Ali and I woke up at 5:30am and were collected from our hostel at 6am by two memebrs of the tour agency. We were escorted out of our hostel down the very steep steps to the bottom of the road where we waited for the bus to arrive. I remember it was so cold that I forced myself to run up and down the steps in an attempt to keep warm. Ali and I were the last to be collected as the bus picked up each individual couple from their accomodation in Cusco. The bus took us to the last village before the beginning of the trail, Piskacuchu which is 2,600m above sea-level. Here we purchased breakfast, a walking stick and poncho (as recommended by Jimmy) before continuing even further by coach to the entrance of the national park. Once our sun screen was applied and the final adjustments made to our attire, we were ready to go.
Spectacular scenery
We entered the park, had our tickets checked, passport stamped (yes, really) and started walking through the mountains following the Urubamba River along the legendary Inka trail. Jimmy pointed out the incredible snow-peaked volcanoe Veronica in the distance. I was at the front of the group for most of the day and talked with our guide for first couple of hours. Jimmy told me that he has been doing this trek every week for the past four years. Like most guides here he started as a porter then worked his way up. There is a heirarchy within the workforce which is as follows: guide, assitant guide, chef, and then the porters of which I do believe there is a also head. The porters are responsible for carrying all the necessary equipment to make our life comfortable throughout the intense 4 days. Items such as tents, awnings, cooking utensils, gas canisters, food, sleeping bags, mats, and not to mention everyone's personal belongings too. I learnt that each porter is only permitted to carry a maximum of 20 kilos due to new regulations (apparently there used to be no regulations and it was common for men to carry loads in excess of 40 kilos). But it wasn't so much their loads that amazed me, it was the fact that they had to run ahead in order to arrive at the campsite before us with enough time to prepare our lunch and dinner. And what was even more unbelievable is that they wore next to nothing with the cheapest of cheap sandals on their feet. And to think, I was concerned about my $70 trainers not being up to scratch. They certainly earned my respect. It's extremely hard work and I'm pretty sure they're not getting paid that well.
It was a hot day but the trail wasn't too difficult. The gentle undulating incline was actually very pleasant and if there was an incline I never thought about it. The scenery did a great job of retaining my attenion. It felt good to be trekking in the great outdoors again. It is definitely something I have grown quite fond of over the past few years and hope to continue when I return home. I spent most of my time walking alone because of the speed in which I walk. I found it difficult to slow down to another person's pace and actually quite enjoyed the peace and tranquility. I was alone with nature so to speak. After about three hours we saw our first Inca ruin, Patallacta which is an impressive settlement on the banks of the river which we viewed from above. Jimmy told us all he knew about it which wasn't really that much. In fact, nothing much is known by anyone about the Inca civilisation and most of what is told is simply speculation. One thing's for sure, they definitely liked a good view. This particular site was strategically placed offering incredible views along not just one, but two huge sacred valleys.
Lunch far exceeded our expectations. When we arrived at the campsite the dining and kitchen tents where already errected and within 30 minutes we were seated around a long table and presented with a 3-course meal. Stuffed avocado for starters (well, they call it stuffed but it's not really), hot vegetable soup followed by tasty grilled trout with rice and potatoes. Everything tasted excellent. Because we were informed that today was going to be a long day we made haste and continued hiking soon after lunch. Walking with stomach full of food made hiking a lot less desireable and visions of napping in the sun kept flashing into my mind. It was difficult but the scenery made it all worth while. After a total of 10 hours trekking we finally arrived at the campsite just in time for a cup of tea before nightfall. Once again the usual setup was awaiting our arrival with the addition of 5 tents lined up ready for occupation. Dinner was equally as good as lunch and we spent the remainder of the evening entertaining each other with interesting stories and conversation. It wasn't long before fatigue began to set in and we all retired to our tents for a surprisingly warm nights sleep under the starry sky.
Day Two
We woke up after a reasonably good nights sleep with the offering of a cup of tea in our tent at 6:00am. Breakfast was at 6:30 sharp where porridge and pancakes were served. Today was the hardest day of the whole trek as we climbed a total of 1,000 meters. It was a struggle but somehow I had the energy and strength to climb the whole distance without stopping for a break. This was quite abnormal considering most people climb 20 steps then stop to catch their breath. I even found myself overtaking groups who set off an hour earlier than ours. I just didn't feel like stopping and strongly disagreed with the idea. My robotic legs just kept on climbing as if they weren't even mine and were out of control. We reached a total height of 4,200m today which is an incredible achievement but I think I have the walking stick to thank for most of it. Having a stick helped enourmously, especially the last 50 or so steps. In fact, I was positively relying on it towards the end. My legs felt like jelly. Everone on the trek clearly struggled. It was an extremely intense hike to say the very least. It was amusing to hear peoples motivation strategies as I passed them by. "Ok, see that big bush up ahead...if we can just make it to there...then we can stop for a break, alright?". My motivation was lunch. The more I ate, the more energy I had. The more energy I had the more I wanted to walk.
Above the clouds it was extremely cold but as soon as I started to descend it warmed up considerably. After about 40 minutes of steep down hill climbing I eventually reached the campsite where I was early enough to catch the porters preparing for our arrival. They were surprised to see me. I was complimented on my fast walking and waited almost 2 hours before the rest of the group made it to the camp.
The unique sub-tropical flora
We were surrounded by unusual plants and flowers
Lunch yet again was surprisingly good. We had a brushetta/pizza-thing followed by asparagus soup and a main course of lamb with rice and salad. Having only had 20 minutes to digest our food we continued onwards. Not long after we started walking again I observed that our environment was starting to change. I began noticing unique flora consisting of flowering vines, orchids, and incredible plants that I have never seen before. We endured more uphill climbing followed by a lot of downhill steps through the spectacular sub-tropical foliage. Unfortunately we didn´t have time to see the last ruin before our campsite because it was starting to get dark and the group refused to quicken their pace (much to my dismay). Thankfully we arrived at the site just before it would have been necessary to use torches to light the rest of our way.
Day Three
Although today wasn't as difficult as yesterday is was certainly demanding. The past two days have naturally started to take a toll on our body which is makes hiking just that little bit harder. At times I thought the whole thing was quite ridiculous. Hour after hour of climbing up and down steps. To say that this trek was exhausting, formidable and extremely taxing would be a gross understatement. I hear of people running these marathons in cities all around the world...well done chaps...but I can tell you, this trek would definitely give you a run for your money. There was a woman on the trail who had to be carried the rest of the way by one of the porters because she was unable to continue. For those who are physically or mentally unprepared for such a gruelling experience view the trek as being perfectly insane. The fact that we had only just covered half the distance this morning never escaped my thoughts either. It seemed to linger in my head like a devil all day. Motivation techniques no longer existed or were of any use to me anymore. Food was my only companion and the process of eating was so mechanical I felt like a car refueling. "Energy...need more energy".
Wiñayhuayna, another ruin we visited
We arrived at Machupicchu Town (often mistakingly called Aguas Callientes) via an unexpected route. A few few weeks ago there was an avalanche which obliterated part of the last section of the trail. Apparently this part of the trek was quite spectacular and is the proper way to enter the ruins. Unfortunately our alternative route was nowhere near as special and involved following train tracks all the way to our campsite which was located just 1k out of Machupicchu Town. Having stopped for a well earned beer with our group in the town we arrived at the camp just after nightfall. Jimmy briefed us at dinner for the last time regarding tomorrow's itinerary. It was quite simple. Get up at 4am! A minibus will pick us up at 5am!
Gracias por su visita
Day Four
At 5:00am in the morning a small coach took us to the entrance of Machu Picchu just before sunrise. We had our passports stamped at the gates followed by a brief inroduction by Jimmy. Machu Picchu, for those of you who are unfamiliar, is a well-preserved pre-Columbian Inca ruin located about 70 km northwest of Cusco on a high mountain ridge about 2,350 meters above the Urubamba Valley. It is one of the most important archaeological centers in South America and the most visited tourist attraction in Peru. At this point however, I wasn't sure what to expect and was so tired from all the hiking we had endured. I questioned whether it really was worth all the effort to get here and if it would actually live up to it's already exeedingly high reputation.
View just before sunrise
Jimmy escorted us to the best place to watch as the city came into focus. I observed with awe as the early morning mist and clouds began to shift. The first sight of Machu Picchu left me speechless. I could hardly believe what I was looking at. I can only imagine how Hiram Bingham must have felt when he rediscovered the site in 1911. It's not only the location but the size of the complex that's so breathtaking. It defies comprehension and no words could accurately describe how I felt when I stood there looking at it for the first time. I considered how life as an Inca would have been at such altitudes and in such conditions...what their beliefs were, sacrifices, rituals etc. It was just so amazing to see it and be there. To have the opportunity to explore an ancient city.
It is thought that the city was built around 1440 and inhabited until the Spanish conquest of Peru in 1532. Archeological evidence shows that Machu Picchu was not a conventional city, but a country retreat town for Inca nobility. The site has a large palace and temples around a courtyard, with other buildings for support staff. It is estimated that a maximum of only about 750 people resided in Machu Picchu at any one time, and probably only a small fraction of that number lived in the town during the rainy season. It is also thought that the site was chosen for its unique location and geological features. It is said that the silhouette of the mountain range behind Machu Picchu represents the face of the Inca looking upward towards the sky, with the largest peak, Huayna Picchu (meaning Young Mountain) representing his nose.
All of the construction in Machu Picchu uses the classic Inca architectural style of polished dry-stone walls of regular shape. The Incas were masters of this technique, called ashlar, in which blocks of stone are cut to fit together tightly without mortar. In some brickwork, particularly for sacred temples and the likes, many junctions are so perfect that not even a knife fits between the stones. The Incas never used the wheel in any practical manner. How they moved and placed enormous blocks of stones is a mystery, although the general belief is that they used hundreds of men to push the stones up inclined planes. The Incas did not leave any documentation about that process because they did not possess a written language. The space is composed of 140 constructions including temples, sanctuaries, parks and residences. There are more than one hundred flights of stone steps – often completely carved in a single block of granite – and a great number of water fountains, interconnected by channels and water-drainages perforated in the rock, designed for the original irrigation system. It truly was amazing to walk around the site and study every last detail of it all. I must have asked myself a thousand questions "why did they do it like that", "what did this do" etc. This certainly was an experience of a lifetime and I'll never forget it for as long as I live.
"Machu Picchu is a trip to the serenity of the soul, to eternal fusion with the cosmos, there we feel our own fragility. It is one of the greatest marvels of South America. A resting place of butterflies at the epicenter of the great circle of life. Another miracle."
-The Heights of Machu Picchu, by a Chilean poet Pablo Neruda
