We arrived at approximately 6:00am this morning and I have spent most of the day in bed. Due to a strike or road closure (we're not sure which - most likely both) we weren't able to get a bus directly to La Paz from Potosi. What we decided to do instead was take a bus to Oruro, a shabby city only 2 hours from La Paz. We figured it would be easy to make our way to the capital from there. The plan was to simply catch a taxi and split the cost between us (we were advised that it would cost around US$60). But the plan didn't quite go according to plan...
The six of us boarded the bus to Oruro in Potosi at 8:30pm last night. Everything was fine until Ali realised she had left her jacket in the taxi (or the hotel - she couldn't quite recall). It was an expensive jacket and she obviously was unhappy about the loss. What made it worse was the fact that there was absolutely nothing we could do about it. Except blame me of course. Ali claimed that she was "rushing around" because of my later-than-SHE-expected arrival back to the hostel which apparently caused temporary loss of mind and forgot about her belongings. I told her that was a ridiculous statement and completely unacceptable. There was silence for the rest of the bus journey. I had already started to become unsettled about our group situation and so I wasn't in the best of moods. They are all really nice people but I hate (let me say that again...HATE) traveling in a group. It's hard enough at times traveling with just one other person never mind five. The more people there are traveling together, the more sacrifices are made and I really don't like the idea of other people making choices on my behalf. Too many cooks in the kitchen so to speak. At times I feel like my indepenence and engagement in current affairs is jeopardised. Frankly, I'm sick of it all. Anyway, so we're all in the bus and we try to sleep but can't. The bus was so cold you could have probably stored frozen goods on it. We arrived at Oruro at about 4:00am in the morning almost frozen. The six of us, all tired and cranky, start the process of trying to find 2 willing taxi drivers to take us to La Paz. We find one and manage to negotiate a price of US$70. After a few unsuccessfull attempts to find another taxi the group start to get impatient. At one point they all seemed to agree on the idea of cramming 6 (I repeat SIX) people including their backpacks into one car. I seemed to be the only sane person who didn't think this would be a good idea. That is of course if it were even possible. Luckily I put a stop to such nonsense by finding us another willing driver. With 3 people in each taxi we departed the bus terminal and began our drive to La Paz in the last remaining hours of darkness. I was relieved that we didn't have to stay another second in Oruro. Even just the area around the bus terminal left a lot to be desired and most of the streets were littered with so much rubbish that I couldn't quite believe my eyes. Needless to say I was thankful we were finally on our way.
About 20 minutes out of the city our taxi driver pulled into a gas station in the middle of nowhere and demanded $120. I had already negotiated $70 before getting into the car and was furious that he attempted such robbery. The other taxi was slightly ahead of us and continued without stopping. I wondered if they would encounter the same situation...or worse. Without communication there was nothing we could do. After much arguing and failed communication the taxi driver, much to my dismay, turned the car around and took us all the way back to the bus terminal. At this point my energy levels were severely depleted and tolerance no longer existed within. I was shattered, but after more failed attempts of finding another taxi we were fortunate enough to be directed to a bus that was just about to leave for La Paz. At about a 7th of the price of a taxi per person it was a bargain. Ali, Sharmin and I managed to get back seats and huddled together under a sleeping bag wearing every single item of clothing we had access to. This bus was even colder than the first. But just when I thought matters were starting to improve, they actually declined.
After 25 minutes of driving down the highway (a little further passed the afore mentioned gas station) the bus stopped in the middle of the road and every passenger on board seemed to be in fury and extremely unsettled. It became apparent that they were still negotiating fares with the driver. Apparently he had just upped the fare. I was starting realise that this was common business practice in Oruro. To our amazement we watched and listened as the passengers argued with the driver. To be perfectly honest we weren't that bothered about the extra 5 bolivianos he was asking. We just wanted to get to La Paz and sleep. I even suggested to Ali and Sharmin that we pay for everyone on board just so that we could instantly put an end to such nonsense. After about 5 minutes of uproar it became apparent that the fare still couldn't be agreed upon. The next thing we know, the bus performed a 3-point turn and started to make it's way back to the bus terminal. I was horrified. The three of us looked at each other in utter disbelief. If we hadn't started laughing I'm sure we would have cried. Our third arrival in Oruro seemed imminent.
Finally, just as we approached the city the passengers begrudgingly mumbled in agreement to the childish demands of the bus driver. The fare was settled (albeit in an extremely immature and uprofessional manner) and the bus turned around and continued in the direction of our destination. Two hours later we arrived in La Paz.
View from the doorway of our hostel
La Paz is situated in the most jaw-dropping of locations and was well worth the effort to get here. The heart of the city begins at the base of a valley and sprawls upwards covering the mountains like giftwrap. No incline has proved to be too steep for habitation. Surrounding La Paz are more splendours which constantly demand attention. The Illimani Mountain for example, a snow capped volcano (inactive) which rises to a staggering 6462m above sea-level followed by the Mururata, Tagresi and Avayna Potosi mountains. All of which dwarf the skyscrapers in the city and create the most incredible backdrop. To stand anywhere in La Paz, on any street corner, in any plaza, your eyes would most likely be met with such energy and pandemonium that it would be difficult to comprehend it all at that instant. The complex mass of skyscrapers, cathedrals, people, traffic and market stalls is almost too much to take in. The main roads are heavily traversed by all types of transport offering various locations around the province. Men hang out of moving buses shouting names of destinations and fares one after another. Minibuses, taxis, buses, coaches...it's hard to believe that there is such a demand. And then there's the locals with their market stalls and food carts. Suited and booted business men, fat ladies in hats and flairy skirts, menacing shoe shiners wearing ski masks and bewildered tourists fill the streets which makes navigating on foot a real challenge. But it's a welcomed challenge for me. An opportunity to get lost in a completely different world. But even getting lost requires a lot of energy which is precisely the reason why I sought out the best coffee shop in the city. I needed a caffeine kick. I anticipate that the next few days will be extremely demanding.
A Bolivian woman challenges the steep incline
The buses in La Paz were extremely decorative
